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The Melting Mud Wall
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Brain Doner 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 8/1/03 Greg M, Jeff O
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,903
Submitted By: Greg Martinez on Sep 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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BETA PHOTO: Route photo

  • Stay on the trails MORE INFO >>>
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description 

    2 cruxes

    Location 

    melting mud wall

    Protection 

    11 bolts & anchors


    Comments on Brain Doner Add Comment
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    By Ryan Stott
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Aug 14, 2010
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

    Great climb. There are 2 tough crux sections with some very tiny moves. Not as sustained as Public Nuissance, which shares the same archor, but both are a great pair of climbs. This climb didn't have as much small loose stuff as others in the area.

    Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites.
    By Alex Quitiquit
    From: Salt Lake City
    Oct 2, 2011
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Solid route... bouldery start leads into easy .10 section into cool .11a move into .11b move and finishes on the same anchors as Nuisance. Work your feet and go for the onsight.
    By TLEE
    From: Salt Lake City
    Jun 21, 2013
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Great Climb, Gave it 4 stars. Clean route as some in this area are not. Climb has side pulls, crimbs, jugs and is very well protected.
    By Tyler Needham
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Sep 14, 2015
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Incredibly fun technical climbing. Keep going when you think you're out of gas, there is a solid rest up high!
    By BrokenChairs
    From: Seattle
    Aug 3, 2016
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Not PG-13 G.M. bolts very well and there are no more than 6' between bolts on a vertical wall. If you're trying to break into the 11 range do these routes.

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