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Brain Dead 


Type:  Trad, Aid, 110', Grade IV
Original: A4 [details]
FA: Whitney Heuermann, Jeff Burton, Lyle Dean
Page Views: 1,172
Submitted By: Barrett Pauer on Mar 27, 2016

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Excellent Route! Beta is for P-1 only. Crux down low up to first bolt and again near the top. Take two ropes


This route is located between Invisible and Creatures. Look for a clean right facing corner, it's hard to miss


Take beaks, RURPS, a blade maybe, cams/stoppers up to .5 camalot, heads to replace blown/missing heads, multiple bathooks so be sure to take a selection of hooks

Photos of Brain Dead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan rapping back into the P-1 anchors
Ryan rapping back into the P-1 anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Little at the P-1 anchors
Ryan Little at the P-1 anchors

Comments on Brain Dead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chase Bowman
From: Baton Rouge/Durango
Mar 29, 2016

Hell yeah Barrett, after walking past this thing a hundred times I had to give it a try. Bailed on the first bolt. The start is terrifying. Way to get after it!
By Chase Bowman
From: Baton Rouge/Durango
Mar 29, 2016

What is condition of the fixed heads? The ones that I saw looked to be in pretty bad shape.
By Barrett Pauer
From: Brevard, NC
Mar 29, 2016

The heads are in decent shape now, this pitch has seen two ascents this year so the bad ones have already pulled. You still should test all heads and be prepared to place your own. I would say the top is the crux now because I broke a wire on a head and didn't have anything to clean it with so I got on a really tipped out beak and that worked well enough. Get after it!
By trr2ke Reed
From: Cookeville, Tennessee
May 24, 2016

I'm glad to hear this route is getting some traffic. Maybe I'll hit it up as well.
By Ryan7crew
May 27, 2016

Little more beta one the route as of winter 2016. I soloed it over a total of 3 days of climbing. But I fixed ropes and came down in-between climbing days on route.

Pitch one: See above description. Crux for me was getting to the first bolt. Exciting hooking to a bugaboo that will keep you off the ground for a little bit. Had a hook start to shift off while top stepping and took a golf swing with my hammer to reset it. After the first bolt you at least won't hit the ground. Definitely bring two talon hooks and I've heard of people using a crash pad or two.

Pitch two: Mental crux of the route, felt way scarier than pitch one. You just won't hit anything when you rip the pitch. Took a 40 foot factor two fall onto the belay. Ya, this pitch is on from the get go. Bring heads, circle heads, rurps, beaks, two talons, and a cliffhanger. Sorry, I snapped the cable off a rurp, so get creative. Also, be prepared for multiple 20ft bat hook ladders followed by 20 feet of circle heads (mental crux). The bat hook holes were full of mud and really hard to find. The top seeps real bad and hypothermia is reaisin winter.

Pitch three: Best pitch of the route! Once you find it. Ignore my heads going straight up (sorry) and traverse about 15 feet left. Hooks, beaks, heads, and maybe some cams get you up the pitch. Bring multiple cliffhangers.

Pitch four: Worst pitch of my life. Finally bust out that double rack of cams to 3 you drug up this thing, and still keep the iron. The water groove is deep and dirty, resulting in placing gear 2 feet apart simply because you can't top step..or second...or third step. Be prepared to do 5.10 mantels out of the top of your aiders, then transition back to aid. For an idea of the misery of this pitch, I averaged 1.5 hours pitch on the first three to lead. This one took 4 hours! I also fell 3 times, twice more than the rest of the route. Ran out of gear even after leapfrogging and had to lower and back clean. This sucker is long! But don't bail after pitch 3, go for the summit! Gear anchor.
Pitch five: free solo to the trees

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