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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Cramps T 
Chopping Block T 
Curving Crack Variation T 
Dash and Thrangle T 
Direct Hit T 
Eastern Front, The T 
Fiend, The T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Glen's Pancake T,TR 
Gobbler's Grunt T 
Great White Crime T 
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 
Jump Start T 
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 
Nightime Madness T 
Northern Comfort T 
Rastafarian T 
Route 902 T 
Satyr's Asshole T 
Second Coming T 
Southern Comfort T 
Stewart's Crack T 
Straw Turkey T 
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 
Tofonareeker T 
Tryptophane T 
Turkey Shoot T 
Vanishing Point T 
Wild Fire T 

Brain Cramps 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mack Johnson, 1980
Page Views: 3,402
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Aug 30, 2001  with updates from Mack Johnson

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Scoping out the initial overlap. This was hard and...


On Turkey Rocks, this route is about 75 feet to the right of Vanishing Point and can be started in a couple ways. The guidebook topo wasn't too clear, but you start up one of two cracks that both lead to a slightly overhanging section with an old piton. The left crack goes right around a small tree (about a foot tall), and up without disturbing the tree! The right crack goes up a right-facing dihedral and moves left. Crank through the section after the piton. The rest of the route is a wider section which is more chimney than OW, but still a little grunting was going on.... Fun, fairly short pitch.

Edit: description above could be eastern front per comments, but it's been 15+ years, and I definitely have a "brain cramp". I think L to R is Brain Cramp, Eastern Front, and Fiend. If somebody has a better description, feel free.

Edit from Mack Johnson: I believe I did the FA of this route in 1980, though someone may correct me. It was my first route with brass nuts, especially handy before micro-cams. We did not place any fixed pins.


Standard rack, a couple wider pieces perhaps. I took up to a 4.5 cam....

Photos of Brain Cramps Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the second overlap. Gear is OK, but the flake i...
At the second overlap. Gear is OK, but the flake i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brain Cramps climbs more or less straight up to th...
Brain Cramps climbs more or less straight up to th...

Comments on Brain Cramps Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 9, 2006

I think Joe's description is incorrect for the start, although I'm no Turkey Rocks expert. I think Joe is describing two possible starts for The Eastern Front, 5.8. Immediately right of Straw Turkey is a short crack that leads to a small overhang. Right of that, on a blunt arete is another nice looking crack. Just right of that arete is a right facing corner. The second crack and corner both lead to the left edge of a large roof. I believe that's what Joe is describing, and that's Eastern Front. Brain Cramps is a little further left. Eastern Front and Brain Cramps converge at the wide crack. See the photos I've posted.
By jmeizis
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 19, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This description seems to fit in with what I climbed and the topo from the Hubbel/Rolofson guidebook. If this isn't Brain Cramps then I don't know what is, because the climb right of it is too easy, the climb left is harder and there wouldn't be another climb between Brain Cramps and Satyr's Assholed but Straw Turkey is there. I think this is the right climb.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 4, 2009

I added descriptions and photos for The Eastern Front and The Fiend. Hope that helps avoid confusion.
By doligo
Sep 29, 2011

Ken Trout's book says it's Straw Turkey's clone. I didn't find any similarities between these two climbs.

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