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MBA Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrenalyzer T 
Bad Manners T 
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete S,TR 
Brain Dead Ted TR 
Broken Arrow S,TR 
Cliff Hanger S 
Dan's Line aka Restless Heart S 
Dan's Manners S 
Fatal Attraction T 
Feeding Frenzy S 
Good Man Dan S 
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack T 
Left Behind T 
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) S 
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar T 
Milk Dud, The T 
Mini Me S 
Minor Trad Achievement T 
Mournful Mullet T 
Nader T 
No Manners aka Hodat T 
Oblivious T,TR 
Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line S 
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) T,TR 
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters T 
Sick Minds Think Alike T 
Spike S 
Stoney Middleton T 
Table Manners S 
Twenty Something Arete T 
Wazup? aka Buchanan T 

Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Ash, Julie, and Charlie, ~1992
Page Views: 3,434
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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BETA PHOTO: 04-DEC-2004.


Climb the sharp arete about 40 yards west of the top access between Table Top and Industrial Buttress.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. TR: Be careful, as the bolts are on a ledge about 15 feet below the top - belay recommended. Some long slings (10 foot) are nice to save wear and tear on the rope.

Photos of Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Davis on Brain Cloud.
Bob Davis on Brain Cloud.
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon nearing the crux.
Peter Dillon nearing the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: William working the bottom of Brain Cloud. Fat Fin...
William working the bottom of Brain Cloud. Fat Fin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Excellent, varied route!
Excellent, varied route!
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Droogsma took this photo w/ a disposable, so ...
Eric Droogsma took this photo w/ a disposable, so ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Canadian enjoying the sun!
Canadian enjoying the sun!

Comments on Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 10, 2001

The third bolt that protects the crux has a spinning hanger. This bolt should be inspected by the boys with the Bosch to determine if it needs to be replaced. Great route.
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Jan 8, 2003

Fairly continuous route, though the bolts are at your feet at the 2 cruxes. The moves are frog like. Being a neurologist I cannot resist the name of this route. From the same anchors, one can toprope Shadow of a Hangdog aka Fat Fingers to the right (a sandbag at 10a/b) and Mandela aka Leaning Pillar to the left. There are 3 bolts trending right of the roof on "Shadow" leading to a 2 bolt anchor that is accesssible easily from the Brain Cloud anchors. This latter, somewhat contrived, route seems 11ish, and just left of the Stony Middleton corner. Therefore, we were able to TR 3 other routes, after leading Brain Cloud.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 25, 2003

How long has that fake hand-hold been there? Somebody put some glue on this route.
By Paul Sampson
Aug 3, 2004

Where is the fake hold? I climbed the route last week (after last climbing it five to seven years ago) and didn't notice anything like that. The route certainly doesn't need it. The moves are moderate and fun.
By Michael Amato
Dec 5, 2004

I think AC is referring to the obvious, inconsequential 6 inch wide white edge at the top of the pillar above the first bolt, before you arrive at the arete proper... looks like an accumulation of 100 years of bird shit. Try staying straight up the arete past the second and third bolt - the holds are a bit reachy, but the climbing is quality.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Apr 25, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

FIRST ASCENT 1992ish: Ed Ash, Julie, and Charlie.
By Jason Haas
Apr 25, 2008

Pre-bolts, this was a TR known as Shadow Arete.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 28, 2014

This is a darling little route, and yes, very frog-like. I think the name may come from the movie "Joe versus the volcano," that goofball story with Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks in it which, like "The Princess Bride," just makes you smile, although you may not be entirely sure why. And it appears from the photos that the weird little death pillar has fallen off the ledge at 2/3rds height---good, I never liked standing on that thing anyway. And I remember the bird-dung spike, too. Always wondered about that....
By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

This route is not bolted in the most friendly way: there is ground fall potential on easy terrain getting to clip 2, and ledge out potential *when cruxing* to get bolt 4. Indeed, I watched my friend fall above bolt three and break her ankle. It may be quality climbing, but it's an unfriendly route. Don't climb it unless you are very comfortable at the grade.

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