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Bradbury Mt. State Park

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Bradbury Mt. State Park Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.9002, -70.1795 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,829
Administrators: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Dec 11, 2007  with updates from Louis Eubank
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Map of the area


Quaint boulders nestled among forests and furry woodland creatures.

Heinously sharp, large grain granite boulders- crystals are the dominant feature, also look for sloping aretes, crimps, and the occasional generation hold. Some highballs, lots of potential for new routes. really fun.

Shady and sunny, depends on aspect, etc.

Getting There 

Exit 24 on I-295 in Maine. If coming from the North, take a left at the end of the ramp and follow obvious signs.

Once at Bradbury Mountain St. Park, take an immediate right after the gate to the lower parking lot. Head up trail at end of parking lot "Summit .6 miles".

Head up trail for a quarter mile-ish, past a few wooden staircases. At Y jxn with small map, head left to overlook. See large signs that state end of Bradbury Mountain State Park, and walk right past them. Head directly down hill.

You should run directly into Southern Boulder or slightly to skier's right of it. The remaining problems are a hundred yards climber's left of Southern Boulder.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bradbury Mt. State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bradbury Mt. State Park:
Grown Ocean   V0+ 4+     Boulder, 10'   The Cornerstone
Clear the Deck   V2-3 5+     Boulder   Lower Boulder
Lower Lower Arete Problem   V3- 6A     Boulder, 12'   Lower Boulder
Santa's Little Helper   V3-4 6A+     Boulder   Lower Boulder
Rugosa   V6 7A     Boulder   The Cornerstone
Diamond Bollocks   V8 7B     Boulder, 20'   The Lodestone
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bradbury Mt. State Park

Featured Route For Bradbury Mt. State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: A video still from a recent (2010) ascent, some 20...

Heaven V3-4 6A+ PG13  Maine : Bradbury Mt. State Park : The Cornerstone
Heaven climbs the very obvious and aesthetic southwest corner of the Cornerstone. After a crimpy and sharp start, the climbing eases up considerably with a tall, slightly balancy, but very fun finish. This was the very first problem put up here, requiring quite a lot of cleaning. It was done in a pre-pad era so it was TR-ed first, then soloed. With modern pads, a ground-up ascent is pretty reasonable...[more]   Browse More Classics in Maine

Photos of Bradbury Mt. State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Coords to boulders.
BETA PHOTO: Coords to boulders.
Rock Climbing Photo: newly cleaned line
newly cleaned line

Comments on Bradbury Mt. State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kris McNeill
Jun 10, 2009
Does anybody have a map showing the routes on the boulders. I've been there climbing many times but I don't know which route is which. Even a hand drawn sketch would be cool!
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 23, 2010
Thanks for adding this area. I developed the majority of the problems here in the early 90s and will be posting photos of the boulders in the next week or so.
By John Agee
Jul 28, 2010
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! I've always wondered about the names and grades of these problems. Bradbury is a very special place, and it's awesome that the landowner is so chill about light use.

What about the problems on the Southwest side of the upper boulder? I really enjoy the highball straight up the middle with the crux being the vertical section down low, crystal pinching gaston, etc.
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Mar 8, 2013
Great after class spot for Bates students... sharp but fun and some real gems!
By Mark Ra
From: Frange, CO
Oct 30, 2014
Admittedly I am a terrible novice climber but Bradbury shredded my fingers and I was barely able to climb anything. It's a cool spot and I'll be back when I can give it a better go. Found some easier rock at Jockey Cap.

After flailing around on some of the routes posted here I ended up just lapping short V-easy warm ups on this little rock. I think it was the one you hit first when coming in from the park side. Just above The Cornerstone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Warm up rock at Bradbury.
Warm up rock at Bradbury.
By caesar.salad
From: earth
Jan 7, 2015
FYI: These boulders are on private land. Be respectful and clean up after yourselves. The landowner doesn't mind climbers; let's keep it that way.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jan 8, 2015
Good advice about keeping a low profile. Thanks for posting it!

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