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Bozo No No S,TR 
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Bozo No No 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rex Mammel, 1992
Page Views: 5,157
Submitted By: Dan Mottinger on Sep 7, 2001

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This really great sport route is found in the main part of the Grocery Store Walls. The climb features sustained crimpy climbing using some pockets, cobbles, and two finishing jugs. This route is a higher quality than the majority of The Wood's climbs. Climb it.


Five bolts to two cold-shuts.

Photos of Bozo No No Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon dances up this delightful line.
Jon dances up this delightful line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me approaching the crux moves on Bozo No No.
Me approaching the crux moves on Bozo No No.
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting just below one of the final sequences, on ...
Resting just below one of the final sequences, on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ted, taken in Dec '04.
Ted, taken in Dec '04.
Rock Climbing Photo: On my favorite climb in Castlewood, and my first n...
On my favorite climb in Castlewood, and my first n...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bozo No No.

Comments on Bozo No No Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 26, 2015
By Aaron Shupp
Feb 18, 2002

I used to climb this route with some regularity about seven or eight years ago. I quit doing it after a 1/4 inch bolt pulled right out in my friend's finger tips. That single bolt wasn't essential to protect the route, but the experience was rather disconcerting. Does anyone know if the bolts have been replaced?
By Darin Lang
Apr 2, 2002

I don't think any of the bolts are 1/4 anymore. Heads up between the first and second bolts, though - groundfall territory. A very good, sustained route that doesn't really offer a rest until you're lowering from the anchors.
By Rex Mammel
Apr 8, 2002

When I put up this route there was not a single bolt on the line. Just after that a bolting ban was imposed.
By Scott Robertson
From: Portland, OR
Jan 20, 2003

This climb feels nice, continous, very cool.
By Scott Robertson
From: Portland, OR
Nov 22, 2003

Does anyone know if the bolts on this climb are kosher? This summer I noticed the hangers were spinning on a few and I'm going to be in town for Thanksgiving weekend and I'd like to lead it, let me know...Thanks!!
By Dan Mottinger
Nov 23, 2003

I led this last April and didn't test out any of the bolts beside the anchor bolts. Nothing remarkable that I remember as far as being a bad bolt or a spinner, so they should be ok. It would be a good idea to check first on TR or rappell if there's suspicion though. I think that some of these bolts have been replaced since the originals but can't be sure.
By kevin jenkins
Jun 30, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

it's tough to judge this one until you have spent some serious time on it. there are a number of variations that could drop the rating on this, and it is easy to wander on a top-rope, but as long as you [consistently] check yourself in relation to the route, i think you can get an accurate 5.12 c rating. there is one sloper-hole that is just to left of the central line about 25 ft up. i would [recommend] using this with both your left hand and flag it with your left foot while moving past this extended crux. happy climbing!
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 4, 2004

It is not often I come out and say things like this but 12c is insane... I have no idea what would get you there....-tom
By Scott Robertson
From: Portland, OR
Dec 25, 2004

Yeah, I would have to say that 5.12c is a pretty far leap for this climb. It's hard for me to compare this climb to 'Bat out of Hell' at Cave Rock. I was surprised by the 5.11c recommendations, and I know it cannot be 12c because I cannot lead 12c, yet I pulled this one off. Not that any of this actually matters it's still one of the best climbs in the canyon.
By Tom Hanson
Jan 4, 2005

I never stated that Bozo No No was 12c. If I inadvertantly typoed such a rating I apologize. I would say that Bozo is more like 11a/b.
By Tom Hanson
Sep 9, 2005

I don't know how I have been credited with giving Bozo a 12c rating.My guide lists it as 11a.It looks like Dan Mottinger added this route to the website as 11a and subsequently people have added 11c as the rating.Rex Mammel made an entry here on 04, 08, 2002, claiming the FA in 1992.I had thought that this was a Chis "Drag" Drysdale route. Is Rex Mammel a pen name for Chis Drysdale?Am I wrong in my belief that Chris did the FA?\
By aBove
From: Denver, CO
Sep 23, 2007

The first bolt on this puppy is spinning like there is no tomorrow...and had separated from the wall considerably.... The rest were fine though. Awesome line! Really, really fun!
By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 22, 2007

Great climb but a hail storm stopped me at the third bolt. Hope to finish it soon.
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

First bolt is hard to clip, as it spins very loosely. Could be suspect to failure in a f2 fall, but I could hang on it pretty safely. Run out at the crux but you can head right towards the crack for easier climbing.
By TJ Quirk
From: Parker, CO
Jul 27, 2009

Seems a little easier than 5.11-, maybe 5.10c/d? Or maybe it's that you don't need a secret decoder ring to find the holds, so it seems easier than other 5.11 in the canyon.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 8, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought 5.11a/b was pretty accurate for this route. I climbed it in pure afternoon heat, and the pockets/crimps felt nicely greased up making this a pretty exciting onsight. I was also pleasantly surprised with the quality of this route - good, sustained, positive crimping/pocket pulling for 50 feet. The bolts seem fine - the hangers may spin, but the bolts are in pretty good condition. 5 bolts to rings. Excellent line!
By Furthermore
Jul 26, 2015

As of July 2015, there is a wasp nest in a pocket just 6-8 inches above the first bolt. I was lucky and missed putting my finger in the pocket by staying on edges. The wasps seemed pretty angry when I was eye level with them and lowered off.

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