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Boyz From The Hood 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Kelly Baldwin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,856
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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BETA PHOTO: Boyz from the Hood, as view from the base of the r...

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  • Description 

    Good climbing on fairly clean rock. Will clean up with more ascents. The crux is moving from the corner to the face/arete. Climb up to the first bolt and make a weird move reaching the second bolt, climb past the bolt and move left into the corner passing the third and fourth bolt, make a cool move left to the arete/face and climb up the face on good holds slinging a horn for protection to the anchor.


    The first route on the left side of the wall.


    Six clips, long sling (for horn) to a two bolt anchor.

    Comments on Boyz From The Hood Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 3, 2008
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Not as clean or as nice as the routes on the main wall. While the climbing is OK, it lacks the distinct and singular line that make a great route great.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jun 19, 2009

    The sling for the horn is not necessary.
    By Robby Cribbs
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 19, 2010
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    This climb gave me the feeling that it was meant to be 10a, but someone took all the good holds and faced them the wrong direction.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Aug 12, 2010

    The move onto the face is a bit tricky and the poor feet make the next clip interesting.
    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 4, 2011

    I did not enjoy this route very much. I agree with Cribbs.
    The moves on this route were awkward. I'm all for technical routes, but this route was just unpleasant.

    The only redeeming feature of this route was when I decided to run out the last bit by ignoring the clip, staying on the original face, and hitting up the high-foot layback in the crack.

    Try the route to the right of this one. Much better.
    By prod. Kenny
    From: Boulder, Co
    Oct 15, 2011

    I liked this line. Compared to other 10a's in the canyon it felt harder. But I'd stick with 10a for the rating.
    By Carl Schaefer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 24, 2016

    Fun route! Tricky start followed by an optional offwidth and then interesting traversing moves.
    By Andrew Locke
    From: Louisville, CO
    Jun 1, 2017
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Nobody in my party today particularly enjoyed this one. It's not a bomb, but one star. It's just weird. Like Keith, I'm normally all for technical moves, but it just wasn't very fun. I squeezed into the slot between bolts 1 and 2 which was a bit nerve wracking, though not super hard.

    The book says moving onto the face on the left isn't the crux, but that part actually felt the most straightforward after all the awkwardness below it. For me, the crux was getting to the first bolt, though I probably read it wrong.

    Also agreed with Tony, no need for the sling. Once you're there, it's 5.easy to the chains.

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