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Routes in Babylon Crag
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All American Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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All American Hand Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Babylon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Box Tops S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Far East T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In A Strange Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left For Dead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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PFM (Pure F$%^&*! Magic) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Proof Of Purchase T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sumeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tahoe Queen S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Patrick Mulligan |
| Page Views: | 1,605 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Mulligan on May 12, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This route climbs the bolted face (steep slab) 10 feet to the left of proof of purchase. It is thin, technical, and very sustained. Start about 10 feet to the left of the corner and surmount the small 4" ledge then climb the face past the first bolt (recommended stick clip). Move left on the least steep part of the slab through easy climbing to clip the 2nd bolt(optional gear here recommended). Now move through the line of 7 bolts to the top first veering slightly left then right then left. You are climbing on the only usable holds (for me anyway) on the face. Thankfully there are some good stances from which you can rest.
I've seen a couple of folks get suckered into some larger holds about 2.5-4' left of the bolt line at and above the 2nd bolt. These holds are very loose and some large Platter size plates have pulled off when folks have veered too far into those holds. The shape of the bottom of the wall makes any rockfall head straight for the belayer. The holds within roughly 2' of the bolt line are very solid and all the loose rock has been cleaned.
I've seen a couple of folks get suckered into some larger holds about 2.5-4' left of the bolt line at and above the 2nd bolt. These holds are very loose and some large Platter size plates have pulled off when folks have veered too far into those holds. The shape of the bottom of the wall makes any rockfall head straight for the belayer. The holds within roughly 2' of the bolt line are very solid and all the loose rock has been cleaned.
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