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Box Canyon Boulders

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Box Canyon Boulders Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.01231, -90.12182 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,448
Administrators: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 21, 2006
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Ben making short work of All in the Family. Photo...

Description 

While Box Canyon does not have the quanity that other areas in the park have, it does offer several of the alpha classics to be found. The largest boulder in this grouping contains in all rights the most recognizable classic at Governor Dodge, The Godfather. The first known ascent of this overhanging line of sidepull pockets and laybacks was done in the late e80's by Dave Groth.

When Dave first told me about this spot he said that he had cleaned and done six lines on The Godfather boulder. Then in the early 90's Eric Zschiesche and John "The Verm" Sherman came to the park specifically to climb on The Godfather boulder as part of their Stone Crusade Tour, which led to the creation of John's book by the same name. This book focused on some of the best known bouldering areas in the United States and offered some colorful history. I think it would be fair to say that the classics here had been done thirty years ago.

The area sports about half a dozen good lines and a handful of other less inspiring lines. Unless you flash all the highballs this area has enough to keep you occupied for half a day or so. The good side of the The Godfather boulder gets decent afternoon sun in late fall/early winter.

Getting There 

From the front office take a right and head towards Cox Hollow lake. There will be a windy section in the road skirted by praries that eventually drops down into the "hollow". At the base of the hill are two parking areas, one on either side of the main road. Park in the left one signed Box Canyon. You can see the boulders from this parking area. You just drove by them...

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.2 miles from here

38 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',9],['V2-3',7],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',5],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Box Canyon Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Box Canyon Boulders:
Corleone's Corner   V0 4     Boulder, 12'   Godfather Boulder
The Good Times Are Killing Me   V2-3 5+     Boulder   Godfather Boulder
The Godfather   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Godfather Boulder
Cosa Nostra   V4 6B PG13     Boulder   Godfather Boulder
All in the Family   V5 6C     Boulder   Godfather Boulder
All In All   V5 6C     Boulder   Godfather Boulder
An Offer He Couldn't Refuse   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Godfather Boulder
Cannons   V6 7A     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Cannon Boulder
The Basilisk AKA Cannons Sit   V8+ 7B+     Boulder   Cannon Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Box Canyon Boulders

Featured Route For Box Canyon Boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ rounding the corner...

All In All V5 6C  Wisconsin : Governor Dodge State Park : ... : Godfather Boulder
Perhaps 35 feet or so of continous bouldering at solid 5.12 climbing. Something like that. Start way down on the right side of the big boulder on steep arete at some really good pockets. Work up the arete using whatever feels good to the corner. Get a little rest and then start into the left tending traverse over crimps and slopers to the pointed jug on All In The Family and continue to the top of that route....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wisconsin

Photos of Box Canyon Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Schema of Cox Hollow/Box Canyon Boulders.  My memo...
Schema of Cox Hollow/Box Canyon Boulders. My memo...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Godfather...
The Godfather...

Comments on Box Canyon Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Jun 9, 2007
Finally made it out to the area today. All classic problems All in All is a blast, must do for wisco boulderers.
By Brian Runnells
Nov 1, 2007
Be aware, the crux of the area is how you are going to get off the boulder. I ended up climbing down the large tree by Godfather.
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Apr 27, 2009
I may have to disagree a bit here. The line you speak of Paul does sound a bit contrived, but to my knowledge, undone. By your description it sounds like it simply climbs on the face only between godfather and all in the family? If you are looking for a challenge I say go for it.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 27, 2009
Go get it man!
By Dobbe
Jun 5, 2009
I put in two days of unearthing the top and did not get to finish. I would like to clean the rest and there might be two more lines. I would like it if I could get on them first, but not the end of the world if not (I will just hate you for ever). I don't think they will be harder then V3 put would like to get then cleaned up right.

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