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Bowling to Biscuits 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jon Nelson and Dave Toler (Dec 1980)
Page Views: 1,508
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Nov 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Moving into the fingerlocks after pulling over the...

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P1: 5.10a. Climb a short crack on a pedestal, about 30' left of Peanuts. At the top of the pedestal, layback up and right to the face holds (takes a good wired stopper or brass nut: #5 BD nut is perfect). The face climbing (~5.8) has two bolts, and ends on a ledge below a hand-crack in a shallow corner. Climb the crack (~10a) and do a few traverse moves left to a two-bolt chained anchor below the roof.

(Completely disregard the info in guidebooks published before 2012: they mistakenly label the dirty corner further left as the 1st pitch. That corner was never part of the route.)

P2: 5.10d. Go over the roof on the right side, grabbing solid flakes and jamming (~10a). Enter the corner (see photo) and follow the corner to a ledge and 3-bolt belay. The crux is the pumpy jams soon after pulling the roof. The crack widens at the top. The top ledge is very comfortable.

Pitch 2 is short but sustained. It also tends to stay clean and dry, even in a light rain.

A double rope (150') reaches the ground. With a single rope, you can rap to the anchor at the top of the first pitch, but it may require a little swinging to be able to grab the chains. From this anchor, a single 60-m rope will reach the ground.


In the Bobcat Cringe area. Starts about 30' left of Peanuts to Serve You.


Bring small nuts and cams to 4".


In 1980, Dave Toler and I went ground up. I led the first pitch, traversing over from Peanuts, then heading through some thick foliage that clogged the best jams, making it much more desperate than it is now. The second pitch was always perfectly clean, though originally there were some vine maples below the roof that I stood on. We called it Bowling for biscuits.

In 2012, Derek Pearson cleaned off the (much better) direct start, and then later he, Nicola Masciandaro, and I repeated the route. Now both pitches are very clean. The vine maples at the start of p2 left on their own (rotted and fallen out), and Nicola probably did the first non-tree-aided ascent of the pitch, giving the route it's present name.

Photos of Bowling to Biscuits Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the slot on P2 after the opening flake...
BETA PHOTO: Starting up the slot on P2 after the opening flake...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica leading 1st pitch
Jessica leading 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon giving Bowling a much-needed makeover, Novembe...
Jon giving Bowling a much-needed makeover, Novembe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the second pitch of Bowling to biscui...
Looking down the second pitch of Bowling to biscui...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the second pitch of Bowling to biscuits...
Looking up the second pitch of Bowling to biscuits...

Comments on Bowling to Biscuits Add Comment
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By derekpearson Pearson
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There is a direct start to this route now. Climb the obvious hand crack then climb out on a flake(place a #5 bd nut here) then clip two bolts . There is also a chain belay under the roof at the end of p1 . this climb is still a little scruffy but well worth it. p2 is classic !
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Apr 25, 2012

Thanks Derek for adding the direct start. I updated the description above.
By Nicola Masciandaro
Aug 29, 2012

Sine qua non. If you haven't done this climb, you haven't climbed at Index.
By derekpearson Pearson
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

When I climbed this I thought the anchor under the roof was troublesome so I added a anchor at the top of first corner. Now one will belay standing on the shoulder and the follower can pass through straight to the over hanging flakes. Stemming makes the overhang much easier.
By Nicola Masciandaro
Aug 30, 2012

Makes sense if there is a stance lower down. Nice to have a clear space for deciding whether to stem on moss or crank on the steep holds.

And how about a fixed line leading to the base of Relapse? That would be a nice alternative to having to traverse in from B to B I think. And for sure remove your original anchor from P1 of Relpase. That flake it is perched on is scary anyway and the moves go direct through the crystal pockets. If I could do them in that heat, they might be only 11c or so in cooler temps. Put one bolt to clip when your hand is in the sloping right pocket, another to clip after you've stood up with your foot in it, another to clip once you grab the small positive knob above (which is about level with the small roof/flake to the right or maybe a little higher), and then another to clip once you get your foot on that knob to rejoin the part that Jon did. That will be one cool pitch. ;-)
By derekpearson Pearson
Aug 31, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

That sounds good I think I will remove that anchor. I have a good name for it now "And Say". I'm working on a good P1 for And Say I will be done soon. I will bolt it up just like you said I think that will be the best way to climb it.
By Johan
From: San Francisco, CA
Nov 25, 2013

I cleaned the first pitch of this yesterday, November 24th, 2013. Not deep-cleaned, but cleaned it in so much as I led it. It's a really great pitch, definitely worth doing if you venture up here for Peanuts, looking for moderates. Haven't tried the second pitch.

The move off the pedestal really does protect extremely well by a #5 BD nut. From the ground it looked like there was no placement in that crack, but by trusting the comments here and feeling adventurous, I headed up and used an aid nut wire to floss out the dirt from the crack to make for a perfect placement.
By derekpearson Pearson
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Thanks Johan, its a fun pitch. p2 is really cool too.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I just don't really know anymore because I just get worse every year instead of improving, but this seemed allot harder then some 11a's I have climbed. I did a ship called black rock the day before so maybe tired but this is a beast!
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Mar 9, 2015

But Geoff, I thought everyone knew that 10d was harder than 11a. We are all on the same page here...

It is a strenuous stretch over the roof. The jams look so good, but the thing leans the wrong way.

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