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Bowling Ball and Chain 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, April 1998
Page Views: 1,483
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: The route is in the center.

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  • Description 

    This route is located on the upper tier of 'The Bowling Alley'. Climb the gully to the right of 'Take the Termites...' up to a ledge at the base of 2 bolted routes on the upper right hand side of the main wall. This route is the rightmost of the 2 routes, beside 'Oil Pan Hook Shot'. I am not sure what Rick was thinking, but he must have been desperate to put new routes up, this one could have been left out.

    The climbing starts atop a block past the first bolt, over a little roof on good holds and then up the slab to the last 2 bolts on the arete. Here the climbing is just not fun, straightforward, but to keep away from the corner makes a challenge, as there are few holds on the face. I would only do this route if you happen to expend the energy to check it out, without reading this. Do something else... :) It is pretty hard to get to the anchors, as they are over the edge a bit. If you try it, lower to the anchors from a tree above.


    7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

    Comments on Bowling Ball and Chain Add Comment
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    By ClimbandMine
    Oct 24, 2002

    I definitely questioned the intensions of the FAist on this route. Other than pulling through the bulge at the second bolt, there was nothing worthwhile about it. Up above, it wandered aimlessly, entered the gully, then climbed the arete with a ledge and dirt for feet, and having to reach way around the corner to get to the hand holds. It could have been designed much better to create a better route, in my opinion, or left out all together.
    By Jonathan. D.
    May 8, 2003

    Didn't feel much more than a 5.8 to me ...... The last clip is fun. Quite a bit of loose stuff on the rock.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 3, 2003

    I thought it made an entertaining second pitch to Mosquito Burrito. It's way easier than 10a if you ride the gully though. The (short) jug haul is fun, but the arete is just plain weird.
    By Roy Stedman
    Jul 3, 2003

    I'd give it one star. No must-do, but if you take the time to follow the bolts, it's fun.
    By Chris O'Connor
    From: boulder, co
    Apr 23, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Beautiful view from the top
    By D. Shaw
    Oct 7, 2008

    Very strange route indeed. Almost totally contrived to get any particular rating, so you could say 5.8 or 5.10a. Skip it.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jan 26, 2014

    I think this route is easier than rated on here. D'Antonio rates it 9+, and I think it is a little easier. The route is "ok", but I would not seek it out.

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