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Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route) S 
Cobbles 101 S 

Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 430', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Brenden Sullivan, Jim Yoder, ground-up
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,507
Submitted By: Brenden Sullivan on Aug 11, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: This is the rappell route. By far the easiest way ...

Description 

From the pull out, follow the trail up to the lowest toe of the formation. Then, take a left and skirt around the rock about 75ft until you arrive in a narrow gully. Due to rock fall, try not to belay or leave packs directly in the mouth of the gully.

P1: 5.2 - Climb up the gully to the first bolt about 25 feet up. Continue RIGHT to a scenic belay in a saddle overlooking the East face. This is a 40m pitch. 4 clips and slings to chain anchors.

P2: 5.6 - Sling a nice cantaloupe off the belay and climb directly up the vertical groove over large watermelons and pumpkins, traverse camel hump back onto "Regular Route". 11 bolts to chains under a large bench.

P3: 5.4 - Climb up to a bolt and cut left across the groovy ledge and up a knobby ramp. Sling a few rocks and clip 3 bolts to chain anchors in basalt band.

P4: 5.6 - The summit pitch. Climb through the band of basalt to a chimney, sling a cobble after second bolt then leftward up a low angle chute to the summit. 5 clips. Don't forget to sign the summit register!

Descent: From the summit, rappel off the North end of the East face from an anchor set up near a tree. Make two rappels with a 60m rope or make one double-rope rappel to the ground.

NOTE: Chains are for belay and emergency exit only. Rappelling these routes can be dangerous! Be highly aware of swing potential and possibly taking your hands off the rope and climbing a bit to anchors, auto-block recommended. Most rappels are total rope-stretchers so TIE KNOTS or meet your doom!

Protection 

Quickdraws and alpine draws - 12 total


Photos of Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Bowling Alley Direct topo
BETA PHOTO: The Bowling Alley Direct topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back after starting third pitch.
Looking back after starting third pitch.

Comments on Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob Keranen
Sep 6, 2015

Wow. You've bolted the Bowling Alley route? That used to be a great beginner rope lead(no pro besides slings needed), and now you've turned it into just another sport climb. Too bad.
By Matt McMullan
Aug 6, 2016

I went with a more experienced friend and did this as my first multi-pitch route. We chose it because it was easy, and we wanted to focus on the skills new to multi-pitch climbing rather than the climbing itself.

It turned out to have fantastic intermediate views of Mt.Adams and a little bit of St.Helen. It's called bowling alley for a reason, so be ware of falling rocks. We were careful and didn't knock loose anything much larger than a pea, but that certainly isn't a given with how much loose rock there is on this route.

The view at the top was gorgeous. I recommend bringing your mountaineering or hiking shoes for after the rappel down, as it is an untamed mountain side. The rappel itself is fun, and I appreciate the presence of a third anchor, which made gear management easy. It's best done as a double-rope rappel.

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