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Keyhole Cave Area
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Bow Street 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 66'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: FA. Frank Fitzgerald (1956) FFA. Alan McHardy (1967)
Season: Nearly all year round but can get a bit green in winter
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: Lee Parker on Oct 4, 2008

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Bow street HVS 4c, Millstone ,Peak District (UK)


For me this was a delightful flowing route event though its technical grade (4c) was low. The route follows a thin right trending crack line to a small rectangle break. From here break right to an easy mantel on to a ledge - I found it best to run out on this section. Then finish up Brixton Road.


The route starts in the the left hand bay of Keyhole Cave. The start being distinguished by three clumps of gorse two meters up its thin crack line. Keyhole Cave is situated in the old quarries of millstone where they use to quarry gritstone. Millstone is best accessed via surprise view car park (pay and display) on your right off the A625 from Sheffield. Follow the north-west corned track that leads to the start of the edge. Keyhole Cave is the second bay in.


We did fine with small to medium wires and friends but, a sling or two may come in handy to prevent rope drag if you are not double roping!

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