REI Community
Khayyam Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bourbon and Butterflies T 
Champagne and Cocaine  T 
Conn Route T,S 
God's Own Drunk T 
Meltdown T,TR 
Option C T 
Power of Sole T,TR 
Rubiat Spire T,S 
Silk and Sangria T 
Tequila Sunrise T 
Yellow Wall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bourbon and Butterflies 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: Larry Shaffer
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 14, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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3 hours after I took this photo, Hirsch clipped th...


You'll need some bourbon to ease your butterflies on this full 40m of intensity! Ranks high as one of the boldest and best routes in the Park. Start up the right leaning trough/ramp and head straight up at the first probable looking seam. This is the 'R' rated section since the first placement is at about 20'. After that, the rest is consistent PG13. Surprisingly, there is a lot of gear. But don't pass up a placement, be ready to sniff them out and get creative. Merge into the very end of Silk and Sangria for an exciting finish! Fight the urge to clip Silk's 2nd to last bolt.


The right most route on the Ethyl Wall. Start on right trending ramp. Single 80m barely makes it down.


Double offset cams
Double offset nuts/rp's
C3's down to #00
Single #1 & #2
Lots of slings
Shares Silk's bolted anchor

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By harrison t
From: Black Hills, SD
Nov 21, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

Dang, that's a bad ass pitch of trad climbing.

Don't worry if you only have a single set of offset cams, but a single set of rps on the other hand would be a different story...

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