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Bounce testing in soft rock?
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Nov 19, 2009
So I get the idea of bounce testing but am wondering if it's a good idea on really soft sandstone. It seems to me you could blow out a placement by being too aggressive. Additionally a C1 placement in granite is going to hold assuming one is competent to place gear, but should a C1 placement in sandstone be tested? Same for C2, C3 etc. Tombo
From Boulder
Joined Feb 9, 2006
225 points
Nov 19, 2009
I've never aid climbed before but I cant emagine that being a very good idea considering holds break on soft sandstone all the time. Andrew James C
From Portland, OR
Joined Sep 15, 2009
160 points
Nov 19, 2009
Bounce testing is always a good idea. That's how hard aid pitches can be made easy. The last thing you want to do is be out multiple placements on a relatively easy aid pitch, or desperate one, (soft rock or not) and zipper a bunch of stuff that you didn't test. I have personally done 100's of aid pitches in desert sandstone of all qualities and only rarely have not bounce tested a piece. It's just prudent, and almost never will "ruin" a placement for future use. Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Joined Dec 4, 2007
1,615 points
Nov 19, 2009
I totally agree with Stu. Bounce testing gives you confidence in your placements as you move up a pitch of sketchy placements. I found this especially true on aid pitches in the Fisher Towers. climber73
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Mar 26, 2007
160 points
Administrator
Nov 20, 2009
I bounce test on hard pitches in soft sandstone, but I never do on easy trade routes to keep the wear down. Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,430 points
Site Landlord
Nov 20, 2009
mmmmmm, bounce testing the Fishers.....

Rock Climbing Photo: Mystery protection on Phantom Sprint.  Anyone know...
Mystery protection on Phantom Sprint.

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Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,805 points


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