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Boulder Hypocricy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Killer locks above the bulge.


Where to start with such a broad topic....

Anyway, this is an excellent gymnastic line that, due to well positioned bottlenecks, climbs more like a jughaul than a lieback crack. This is the obvious warmup choice for the Heaven Wall, but also serves as the best approach to "I Been Mooned".

Begin up the easy wall to reach a large undercling flake below the daunting bulge. Get those biceps working until its possible to reach a good jam in the crack. Bomber locks continue over the bulge to good stems and an easy finish.


The Heaven Wall is a white wall with obvious, large roofs, located near the left end of The North End. This is the second route from the right end of the Heaven Wall.


~5 bolts to a shared anchor w/ Journey's End.

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