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This is one of the best face routes around
This line combines a pumpy steeply overhanging bolder problem that leads to an exellent face climb finish. You can climb the obvious ramp on left to gain the top face, thereby avoiding the boulder start.
Start under the way overhanging wall about 30? feet to the right and lower than the start of the chimney. Start the obvious hand traverse left, then up , then traverse across the top to the right on good holds, then pull over the top wherever you can to the rest ledge. A real pumper! A tough fingery move gains the face above for sustained pumpy finish up the face. Superb!
Upper part could maybe be led. no pro to speak of on bottom
From: Derry, NH
Oct 9, 2013
Awesome climb. I'd say 5.9 if bypassing boulder problem like I did. Easy TR with tree and slinging a horn.
By Christopher beauchamp
Nov 12, 2013
I've lead this and would be inclined to call it a G-rated trad route. No particularly difficult moves but it builds a good pump, I thought it was 10a but could be wrong. I'd take the ramp and skip the boulder which is chossy and frequently wet/mossy anyway. Single set of cams to a 3 or 4 will suffice but as the rocks a touch rabbly its nice to have a few doubles in the finger sizes. You may need to step around the corner to protect the moves off the ledge. Top out is straight forward which is nice as I'm way too lazy to pre-build an anchor.