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Wind Tower - SW Face
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Calypso D irect Start T 
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Calypso Direct T 
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G.Y. Dihedral, The T 
Governor's Climb, The T 
Hard-Up T 
I Did It My Way T,TR 
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Lemmings T 
My Own Way T,TR 
No, Do it My Way T 
Raisin Bran T 
Rastaman Roof T 
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Roofed Out T 
Salvation T 
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West Overhang T 
Wind Ridge T 
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 

Boulder Direct 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 6,870
Submitted By: Jeremy Gilbert on May 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (117)
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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...

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  • Description 

    Start at the outside left edge of the big block that leans against the wall to the right of the Calypso start. Belay at the top of the block or continue up an easy fourth class groove to mid-face and belay (we did this using a 60m rope) From mid-face belay, climb up to a slot (5.5 crux) and finish beneath the natural arch. Descend along the rotten ledge to the left or rappel from anchors that lie 20 ft. to south to the mid-face ledge. From here, downclimb easy rock to a tree that you can rap from, finishing to the opposite side of the big block from where you started. Enjoy!!


    Standard rack with some long runners.

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    Matt chillin under the natural arch at the top of ...

    Comments on Boulder Direct Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By David Neckels
    May 1, 2002

    Try to avoid getting lost in the grass and bushes on this one. Do not step on the bird nests, if possible.
    By Bill Wright
    May 1, 2002

    I've combined this route with Reggae my last two times in the Canyon. You can do this as one pitch with a 60-meter rope. Since the bottom is pretty easy, you can also just run the rope behind the flake at the top of Reggae and downclimb to the rappel anchor while your partner climbs the lower part of the route. You are both on a toprope here, so this is pretty safe. It makes doing this very fast and efficient and lots of fun.

    This also avoids the traffic jams that are ever present on Calypso.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 26, 2005

    If you're trying to squeeze one more easy pitch in before dark, climb the boulder to the crack and go partway up, but move left onto the well featured face before you get to the ledge. follow the right edge of a big flake to a point on the ledge six feet right of the rap bolts on calypso. rap right back down to the uphill side of the boulder with a 60m rope. just make sure no one is headed to or already on the rap anchor before you start and tie knots in the ends of your rap rope.-s
    By Buff Johnson
    Jan 23, 2006
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    I combine the 2nd pitch of this climb with a 5.5 route to the right of the big boulder (when I am not going to be in the way). Makes for a better 2 pitch outing for 5.5 climbing. The 2nd pitch is pretty fun, and does get overlooked as compared to Calypso & Reggae.
    By Jo Holloway
    Jun 26, 2006

    The second pitch is great for a beginning leader. When you are at the top of this route, keep an eye out for a couple of small patches of poison ivy just below the arch.
    By Ryan Tuleja
    May 21, 2008

    I climbed this route yesterday, and had a couple of hornets watching me on the second pitch. I didn't see a nest, and my follower didn't see them at all, but figured I'd put the word out.
    By Bob Brockwehl
    From: Golden, CO
    Jul 26, 2009

    The standard start up the face of the boulder does not seem safe to me. The flakes are hollow-sounding and according to my belayer, did not seem to be attached at the bottom. I like the alternative suggested by Buff Johnson (that sounds like the first pitch of West Overhang). I also agree with Bill Wright: the first pitch is the best approach to Reggae, and if better known, would take a lot of the pressure off P1 of Calypso.
    By Tommy Fuerst
    From: Golden, CO
    Aug 16, 2016

    Be careful of a big loose block on the ledge before the arch! Also can continue up to the summit after the 2nd pitch and still keep it at low 5th class by angling up and left.
    By Spencer Perry
    Dec 6, 2016

    The "first pitch" of this route up the slabby boulder is basically a solo. My partner backed off because of this, so plan accordingly.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 15, 2017

    Climbed all three pitches into one with a 70m. Fun, easy climb.

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