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Boulder Canyon

Select Area...
Above Tower of Babel 
Across From Cenotaph 
Across From Mind Shaft Cliff Crag 
Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag 
Ament's Rock 
Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can), The 
Animal World 
Arena (aka Contender Wall), The 
Armin's Crag 
Avalon 
Bell Buttress Massif 
Between Crackland and Wizard Rock 
BH Block 
Bihedral Area, The 
Bitty Buttress 
Black Widow Slab 
Blob Rock Area 
Boulder Canyon Boulder 
Boulder Falls East 
Boulder Slips 
Boulderado, The 
Bowling Alley, The 
Brick Wall, The 
Broken Rock 
Bummers Rock 
Canyon Block 
Castle Rock 
Catacombs, The 
Cenotaph Crag 
Cenotaph Spire 
Cob Rock 
Coney Island 
Cornerstone, The 
Couch Fire Crag 
Diagon Alley 
Dome, The 
Eagle Rock 
East Of Eden 
Easter Rock 
Electra Glide 
Elephant Buttresses 
Frisky Cliff 
Frogman Pinnacle 
Garden Party Wall 
Goofy Spire 
Happy Hour Crag 
Hideout, The 
High Energy Crag 
Higher Energy Crag 
Hillbilly Rocks 
Huck's Fins aka Sun Dial Crag (submitted as Fin Land) 
Interloper Wall 
Island Rock 
Law of Physics Crag 
Lion's Den 
Little Crag 
Loft, The 
Long Walk Rock 
Lookout, The 
Lost Flatiron 
Lost Rock 
Lower Boulder Falls 
Lower Dream Canyon 
Mental Rock 
Mind Shaft Cliff 
Mindless Cliff 
Mine Hole Crag 
Mountain Rose 
Myth Rock 
Nip and Tuck 
Nursing Home 
One Shoe Makes It Murder 
Overlook, The 
Poison Ivy Dome 
Pop Rock 
Practice Rock 
Red Lyin' Slab 
Retirement Rock 
Road Rock 
Roadside Boulder 
Rock Island I 
Rock Island II 
Security Risk Massif 
Sentinel Slab 
Sherwood Forest 
Short Cliff w/ Three Cracks 
Sleeping Beauty 
Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse), The 
Solaris 
Spasmodic Rock 
Sport Park, The 
Stepping Stones 
Stoner Slab 
Sugar Crack Buttress 
Sugarloaf Block 
Superdeath 
Teflon Wall, The 
Three Buffoons 
Tonnere Tower 
Tortoise Boulder 
Tower of Babel 
Trespass Rock 
Trout Rock 
Truth or Consequences Crag aka Inca Stone 
Tungsten Mine Shaft 
Turtle Rock: A Crag for Kids 
Unknown Crag (across from Lost Rock) 
Vampire Rock 
Wall of Voodoo, The 
Watermark, The 
Witches' Tower 
Wizard Rock 
Zoo, The 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Fraser West
A mostly singletrack ride which combines two loops via the pleasant Chainsaw trail. Near Fraser, Colorado
WTB
Newly rebuilt in 2014, WTB is a fun flowy trail. A great way to connect Winter Park to Fraser! Near Fraser, Colorado
Contrivance
A fun and endlessly windy route up and over the ridge with sections of decently technical obstacles. Near Fraser, Colorado
Strawberry Creek West Trail
Beautiful single and doubletrack that winds through alpine valley meadows and streams. Near Fraser, Colorado
Winter Park East
This loop climbs predominantly bike path and dirt road and descends predominantly sweet singletrack. Near Winter Park, Colorado
Lower Long Trail
A fast, flowing trail with a few built obstacles, berms and even a short climb! Near Winter Park, Colorado
From MP's sister site:

Boulder Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.0024, -105.4102 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,550,138
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Fashionable Boulder Canyon climber pondering the a...

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Minutes from downtown Boulder, a wide variety of climbing types and beautiful scenery make Boulder Canyon a favorite for many locals to climb. The rock type is granite, smooth in places but for the most part highly textured. Easy to challenging sport climbs litter the canyon, and new development is still going on. Also, there are a number of moderate and classic trad lines, from the Elephant Buttresses up to Castle Rock and beyond.

    Note, for organizational purposes, Upper Dream Canyon is listed separate from Boulder Canyon, despite being a side branch of Boulder Canyon.

    The crags on the south side of the canyon receive little sun in the winter months, and often are quite chilly then. They are great for shady climbing in hotter weather, however. Most crags on the northern side of the canyon are climbable in the winter months, and quite hot to climb in the summer sun. Approach time for most climbs is in the 5-15 minute range, if not less.

    Ice Climbing 

    There are a couple of areas in BC that form ice during the winter thanks to a leaky aqueduct. These flows forms just West of Castle Rock on the South side of the creek. Mainly shorter, easier lines, but up WI6 (in thin conditions) can be found.

    Mileages / Crags 

    Here is a update-able list of approximate mileages (from the bottom) with associated crags:

    Mile 0.4 South: Goofy Spire | Slabs
    Mile 0.5 North: Elephant Buttresses | The Dome | Frogman Pinnacle | Rock Island I | Ament's Rock | Three Buffoons
    Mile 0.6 North: Rock Island II
    Mile 1.0 North: Little Crag
    Mile 1.1 South: The Teflon Wall
    Mile 1.? North: Trespass Rock
    Mile 3.9 North: Sugar Crack Buttress | (up Sugarloaf Road) Bummers Rock
    Mile 4.2 South: Island Rock
    Mile 4.6 North: The Brick Wall | Spasmodic Rock
    Mile 4.8 South: Mental Rock
    Mile 4.8 North: Turtle Rock: A Crag for Kids | Milk Dud aka Canyon Block | Long Walk Rock
    Mile 6.2 South: Eagle Rock
    Mile 6.3 North: The Arena (aka Contender Wall)
    Mile 6.6 South: Cob Rock | Lost Flatiron | unknown crag
    Mile 6.6 North: One Shoe Makes It Murder | Stoner Slab | The Wall of Voodoo | Bitty Buttress
    Mile 6.7 North: Short Cliff w/ Three Cracks | Blob Rock Area
    Mile 6.8 North: Happy Hour Crag | Security Risk Massif | Poison Ivy Dome | The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
    Mile 7.0 North: The Riviera | The Bihedral Area
    Mile 7.0 South: Lost Flatiron | unknown crag | Witches' Tower | Sherwood Forest | Garden Party Wall | Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag | Scruffy Crag
    Mile 7.3 North: Hillbilly Rocks | Truth or Consequences Crag aka Inca Stone
    Mile 7.3 South: Boulder Canyon Boulder
    Mile 8.0 North: Lower Dream Canyon | Lower Boulder Falls | Boulder Falls East | Boulder Slips | Lion's Den | Mindless Cliff | Mind Shaft Cliff | Valor | Law of Physics
    Mile 8.0 South: Tonnere Tower | Tower of Babel | Above Tower of Babel | Across From Mind Shaft Cliff
    Mile 8.1 North: The Bowling Alley | The Lookout | The Hideout | Tungsten Mine Shaft | Practice Rock | The Cornerstone | Electra Glide | Road Rock | Superdeath
    Mile 8.1 South: Sentinel Slab | Aquarium Wall | Bell Buttress Massif | Solaris | Japanese Garden
    Mile 8.2 North: Myth Rock
    Mile 8.2 South: Wizard Rock | Avalon | The Watermark
    Mile 8.7 North: The Zoo | Animal World | The Boulderado | Mine Hole Crag | Armin's Crag | Huck's Fins aka Sun Dial Crag (submitted as Fin Land)
    Mile 8.7 South: Vampire Rock | The Loft | Black Widow Slab | Trout Rock | Sleeping Beauty | The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can) | The Catacombs | Unknown Crag
    Mile 8.8 North: Unknown Crag
    Mile 8.8 South: Lost Rock
    Mile 8.9 North: Easter Rock
    Mile 9.1 South: High Energy Crag | Higher Energy Crag
    Mile 9.2 South: Interloper Wall
    Mile 9.2 North: Coney Island
    Mile 10.5 North: Nip and Tuck | Stepping Stones | El Barrio
    Mile 10.8 North: Nursing Home
    Mile 10.8 South: Retirement Rock
    Mile 11.0 North: Couch Fire Crag
    Mile 12.0 South: Broken Rock | The Overlook | Castle Rock | Mountain Rose | Frisky Cliff
    Mile 12.3 North: Cenotaph Crag
    Mile 12.3 South: Across From Cenotaph
    Mile 12.5 South: The Sport Park
    Mile 12.5 North: Cenotaph Spire

    Getting There 

    From the low lands, go to Boulder. Canyon Street (aka CO Hwy 119) runs east to west. Get on Canyon, drive west. Mileage distances for the crags are measured from the bridge that you cross on the right turn as you just get into the canyon. You can also walk/ride on a footpath that follows Boulder Creek to get to some of the rocks.

    From the high lands, go to Nederland. Drive downhill on CO Hwy 119.

    Access Issues 

    Note, the lands along this canyon are a patchwork belonging to multiple owners. Some allow bolting, some do not. Be aware of the owner of the land and their regulations before altering the landscape here.

    The US Forest Service implemented existing seasonal closure orders for Eagle Rock, Blob Rock/East Blob/Bitty Buttress and Security Risk (including both Upper and Lower Security Risk) climbing areas.

    These closures protect a long-established golden eagle territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to alternate nest sites is important for birds of prey early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to use different nests during courtship and to select a site for the season free of human influence. Signs have been posted at key access points into the closed areas and closures will be in effect until July 31. See AccessFund for further details.

    Also, please see ?news? item regarding Security Risk crag access.

    Marijuana 

    Though Colorado has passed Amendment 64 to legalize recreational marijuana use and limited quantity possession, the U.S. Justice Department issued a memo to federal prosecutors that the government would still "aggressively enforce" laws to prevent violations in eight areas of concern involving the drug including possession on federal property. To this point, Boulder Canyon is a complex network of land owners including the federal government. Be aware of where you are if you choose to use.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 5.6 miles from here

    1,611 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',52],['3 Stars',340],['2 Stars',767],['1 Star',422],['Bomb',18]
    ['<=5.6',63],['5.7',87],['5.8',131],['5.9',233],['5.10',393],['5.11',341],['5.12',219],['5.13',54],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',10],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',13],['V6-7',18],['V8-9',11],['V10-11',15],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',3]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Boulder Canyon

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Boulder Canyon:
    East Slab   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   The Dome
    North Face Center   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Cob Rock
    Bitty Buttress   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   Bitty Buttress
    The Young and the Rackless   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   East Blob : Upper East Face
    Cosmosis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag
    Athlete's Feat   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Rock
    Country Club Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   Castle Rock
    Strange Science   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Second Tier : Middle Wall
    Animal Magnetism   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Animal World
    Empire of the Fenceless   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Easter Rock
    The Ticket   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   East Blob : Upper East Face
    Jolt Cola   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Blob Rock : Right Gully
    The Gill Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Castle Rock
    Hot Flyer   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk
    Plan B   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk
    Tell-Tale Heart   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Easter Rock
    Animal Instinct   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Animal World
    Lucid Dreaming   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Plotinus Wall : Middle
    Vasodilator   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   Blob Rock : Right Gully
    Nevermore   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Easter Rock
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Boulder Canyon

    Featured Route For Boulder Canyon
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climber: Daniel Woods.  Photo: Andy Mann.

    Midnight Express V14 8B+  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
    Up the hill from the south face of Castle is a low outcropping/boulder with an obvious arete and flake. Start low on sharp sidepull with your right hand and a very low sidepull for your left. There have been ascents done starting with the big pinch just left of the right sidepull but the FA was done with the first method. Battle your way past several desperate moves up the flake to a perilous finish at the lip.Certainly one of the most classic lines on the Front Range with easy access and a comp...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Boulder Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The kids playing in Boulder Creek.
    The kids playing in Boulder Creek.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Up Spire, Boulder Canyon.
    Up Spire, Boulder Canyon.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of east Boulder Canyon from the air.
    Photo of east Boulder Canyon from the air.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Boulder Canyon gem, Castle Rock, photo: Bob Ho...
    The Boulder Canyon gem, Castle Rock, photo: Bob Ho...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing was a little different in BC in the not s...
    Climbing was a little different in BC in the not s...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Narrows of Boulder Canyon (starting with Cob R...
    The Narrows of Boulder Canyon (starting with Cob R...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Hike just past Boulder Falls for lots of climbing ...
    Hike just past Boulder Falls for lots of climbing ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Copperhead in Boulder Creek.
    Copperhead in Boulder Creek.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Simply Skimpy (V8).
    Simply Skimpy (V8).
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sweeper (V5).
    Sweeper (V5).
    Rock Climbing Photo: Making our way to the Black Widow Slab.
    Making our way to the Black Widow Slab.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Childers working the powerful and classic mov...
    Luke Childers working the powerful and classic mov...
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    BETA PHOTO
    Rock Climbing Photo: DON'T TOP ROPE OR LOWER OFF OF FIXED ANCHORS, too ...
    DON'T TOP ROPE OR LOWER OFF OF FIXED ANCHORS, too ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking "up" the canyon from the sky.
    Looking "up" the canyon from the sky.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Don't fall into this.
    Don't fall into this.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder Canyon Bouldering, Top 5, Horan's Boulder,...
    Boulder Canyon Bouldering, Top 5, Horan's Boulder,...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder painted in setting sunlight from the top o...
    Boulder painted in setting sunlight from the top o...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brent taking a post-climb-swim in Boulder Creek.
    Brent taking a post-climb-swim in Boulder Creek.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder Canyon encounters.
    Boulder Canyon encounters.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Boulder Canyon streamside is virtually deserte...
    The Boulder Canyon streamside is virtually deserte...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Or this poison ivy.
    Or this poison ivy.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sport Park area, Boulder Canyon.
    Sport Park area, Boulder Canyon.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The mouth of Boulder Canyon can be a nice place to...
    The mouth of Boulder Canyon can be a nice place to...

    Show All 24 Photos

    Only the first 24 are shown above.

    Comments on Boulder Canyon Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 6, 2017
    By ac
    Feb 13, 2005
    Does anyone know whats going on with raptor closures in Boulder Canyon this year? There are new yellow signs saying many crags like Blob, Happy Hour, Security etc are closed. Today there were lots of cars parked in normal parking, and a ranger truck. Just curious if anyone knows the details of the closures.......
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 13, 2006
    Avalon (cold this time of year), Animal World and Plotinus Wall (both warm this time of year). Solar Dome is also warm and worth a visit.
    By Kyle P.
    From: Lander, WY
    Jan 3, 2008
    Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon. Beautiful.
    Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon.
    Beautiful.


    Can anyone indentify this crag? CO119 from Nederland. A road winds around it with two small bridges to cross. The crack system on the right begins with a two bolt steep face.
    By crankenstein
    Jan 3, 2008
    That is Castle Rock and the route is Country Club Crack.
    By Kyle P.
    From: Lander, WY
    Jan 4, 2008
    Thanks crank. You're the man.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Feb 5, 2008
    Have the Boulder Canyon closures for 2008 been announced, yet? I have done some online searches, but I have not found any information.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Feb 5, 2008
    From a user feedback mpecotte@fs.fed.us: "I wanted to share a press release from the Boulder Ranger District regarding implementing of seasonal raptor closures in Boulder Canyon, Boulder Colorado. Please read on, and pass the information on to your members and visitors. We hope you can help spread the word to protect golden eagle habitat during courtship, mating and fledging of young.

    Forest Service Closes Areas in Boulder Canyon to Protect Wildlife

    Boulder, February 1, 2008. To protect nesting birds of prey, certain climbing areas on National Forest System lands in Boulder Canyon will be closed to all users beginning today, February 1. These closures protect a long-established golden eagle territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to alternate nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

    The areas commonly known as Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will be closed to climbing and other access. The Security Risk Area closure for 2008 includes Upper and Lower Security Risk. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera remain open. These areas are located along State Highway 119 and approximately one and one-half miles east of Boulder Falls.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. For the most current closure information, check signs in the vicinity, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/r....

    Colorado Division of Wildlife (CDOW) biologists recommend protection of a quarter mile buffer zone around active and alternate nest sites for birds of prey. The Boulder Ranger District's closures actually cover smaller areas around some nest sites, due to the topography and fragmented land ownership in the area. We begin the Boulder Canyon closures on February 1 to protect these golden eagles during the important early nesting season and to be consistent with other local climbing area closures, said Boulder District Ranger Christine Walsh. Ranger Walsh continues, For three consecutive years, we have left Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera open to allow access for winter and spring climbing. As long as compliance with the closed areas is not compromised, we anticipate continuing this in future seasons.

    The Forest Service continues to cooperate with the CDOW and Boulder County Nature Association (BCNA) to protect important nesting areas for birds of prey. CDOW and BCNA volunteers have monitored nesting birds of prey on National Forest lands in Boulder Canyon for many years, providing valuable data about nesting activity.

    It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Please help protect wildlife by respecting all closures, immediately leaving if you should accidentally enter one, and urging other visitors to do the same. Please also be aware that the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks (303-441-3440) and Boulder County Parks and Open Space (303- 678-6200) also enforce closures to protect nesting birds of prey."
    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 17, 2008
    A chonological list of guidebooks covering Boulder Canyon:

    1961 - Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area by Dave Dornan (1st ed?)
    1964 - Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area by Dave Dornan (2nd ed?)
    1967 - High over Boulder: A Climber's and Hiker's Guide to Boulder, Colorado by Pat Ament
    1970 - High over Boulder (2nd Ed) by Pat Ament
    1972 - 5.10 by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson
    1976 - High over Boulder (3rd Ed) by Pat Ament
    1980 - Rocky Heights: A Guide to Boulder Free Climbs by Jim Erickson
    1981 - Boulder Topographics - A Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs by Richard Rossiter
    1983 - Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs (2nd Ed) by Richard Rossiter
    1984 - High over Boulder (4th Ed) by Pat Ament
    1985 - Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs (3rd Ed) by Richard Rossiter
    1986 - Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs (4th Ed) by Richard Rossiter
    1988 - Boulder Climbs North by Richard Rossiter
    1992 - Best of Boulder Climbs (2nd Ed) by Richard Rossiter
    1993 - Boulder Sport Climber's Guide by Mark Rolofson
    1995 - High over Boulder (5th Ed) by Pat Ament and Cleve McCarty
    1995 - Rock Climbing Colorado by Stewart Green
    1996 - Boulder Sport Climber's Supplement Guide by Mark Rolofson
    1996 - Best of Boulder Climbs (3rd Ed) by Richard Rossiter
    1997 - Classic Climbs 02: Upper Dream Canyon by Richard Rossiter
    1998 - Classic Boulder Climbs by Fred Knapp and Mike Stevens
    1998 - Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon by Richard Rossiter
    2000 - Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide by Mark Rolofson
    2000 - Best of Boulder Climbs (4th Ed) by Richard Rossiter
    2002 - Serious Play: A Guide to Traditional Front Range Classics 5.2-5.9 by Steve Dieckhoff
    2005 - Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume 2: The Upper Canyon by Mark Rolofson
    2006 - Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume 1: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon by Mark Rolofson
    2009 - Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs by Bob D'Antonio
    By Dave J
    Apr 17, 2008
    Hey Bob D', when can we add your upcoming book to this list? I heard rumors that it was suppose to be out around this time, is that true?
    By Mike Dallin
    Apr 18, 2008
    A few other guidebooks:

    Mark Rolofson's 1993 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide includes, among many others, a section on Boulder Canyon: "Featuring a new selection of sport climbs from 5.11 to 5.13, not previously documented". Cover is a b&w picture of Mark climbing on the Fang in SSV.

    Mark Rologson's 1995 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide is an update that greatly expands the Boulder Canyon section: "Introducing a new and growing selection of sport climbs from 5.9 to 5.13c on featured granite." Cover is a color picture of Dianne Barrow climbing at Security Risk.

    Fred Knapp's Front Range Topropes also includes Boulder Canyon. I have his first ed, but he doesn't list a year on the copyright page.
    By Chris Archer
    Apr 18, 2008
    Great job on the list, James. A few other guides that also covered Boulder Canyon are Dave Dornan's guide: Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area, 1961 and 1964 and 5.10 by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson 1972?.
    By Matt McKibben
    From: Durango, Co
    Jul 24, 2008
    Anyone know of any good shady afternoon crags in Boulder Canyon?
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 24, 2008
    Tonnere Tower is a good summer crag. Sport Land, on the east face, is in full shade after 2pm this time of year. Treasure Wall, The Garden, and Creekside, on the north face, are in shade for much of the day. The routes at Creekside are right next to Boulder Creek, and get cool breezes off the creek as well.
    By Jacob Richey
    Nov 14, 2008
    What's the steepest sector in Boulder Canyon that gets a lot of sun? I'm taking a lot of falls for a science project and don't want to get scraped up.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 14, 2008
    Hey Matt:

    The steepest section of Boulder Canyon that gets a lot of sun is Bitty Buttress (The Lorax). Your best bet is to go up to the final crux on the Lorax and jump off -- massive air...probably the steepest route in Bo-Can.

    DL
    By jasonhudson
    Jul 1, 2009
    I am visiting the area. This is my first year lead climbing so I am looking for single pitch sport routes around 5.8. So far my limit is 5.9. Thanks.
    By Nick Fury
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Aug 14, 2009
    Bob D'Antonio your guidebook is priceless. I love how you incorporated the history of Boulder Canyon, as well as color coding trad and sport routes among other things. Thanks for the effort.
    By Greg Howland
    Aug 15, 2009
    I lost a BD ATC-Guide two weeks ago or so up in Boulder Canyon. I think I lost it around the Dome/Elephant Butresses area (but could be somewhere else). I'm just a poor college kid with no money and now no belay device. If you found it and returned it, I would be extremely grateful and would be more than happy to reward you with some beer.
    By Cale Farnham
    Aug 20, 2009
    Greg, I didn't see it around and know how that feels, brother! I'm out of Loveland and have an extra BD Guide I'm not using if you'd like to have it? Let's get out on a climb soon and I'll hook it up for you, man!

    Cale
    9703910066
    By The Good Life Denver
    Nov 11, 2009
    We too want to congratulate Bob D'Antonio and Wolverine Press on their fantastic full-color photo guidebook, Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs (released just this summer). We found it to be one of the two best climbing guidebooks in the region--and the best if you are a sport climber only. If you are looking to climb Boulder Canyon, we highly recommend getting that book! Our review of it can be found here: thegoodlifedenver.com/2009/11/...
    By nadeleets
    Apr 16, 2010
    I found an old crash pad by Castle Rock. I climbed until sunset, and no one claimed it. If this is your long lost crash pad and are able to describe it, I'll gladly return it to you.
    By misha zavalov
    From: Boulder, Co.
    May 21, 2010
    Stashing a pad out here sounds ABSOLUTELY retarded to me.... Good God, people, sack up... and carry your pads wherever you go.
    By Kelly Hughes
    Jul 27, 2010
    Gear found at the base of Luminosity today around 4pm [7/27/10]. If it's yours, please email Kelly at kel.and.har@gmail.com and describe the items.
    By nick martino
    Sep 15, 2010
    Found a fairly new Bo Can Guide Book at the base of a crag on 9-14-10. Let me know what crag if it is yours.
    Nick Martino
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 29, 2011
    From Bev Baker, NF wildlife biologist:

    No nesting for the Boulder Canyon eagles this year, that we've been able to find. They have been seen in the territory and added green branches to one nest in March, but didn't settle anywhere as far as we know. All of the National Forest seasonal Boulder Canyon closures are being reopened, and signs will be removed today.

    From John Bustos, Public Affairs Officer, Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests and Pawnee National Grassland:

    Boulder, Colo. (April 29) – On April 29, the Forest Service will reopen Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon.

    These areas have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. The areas, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls, are located along State Highway 119.

    The Forest Service anticipates reinstating closures in Boulder Canyon next Feb. 1 to allow the birds to choose nest sites without being disturbed.

    It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

    For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas or call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 26, 2012
    From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District:

    Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.
    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea... (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.
    By George Bracksieck
    Mar 4, 2012
    This post is in regard to a rock named "Valor" on page 129 of D'Antonio's "Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs." Today we climbed two routes that are incorrectly drawn on the photo at the bottom of the page. We did one route (4 bolts to bolted anchors) on the pictured rock. We did another route (2 bolts plus gear) on a small wall a short distance up and left from the pictured rock. The namesake route, "Valor," doesn't seem to exist, or it may just be a loose pile.
    By George Bracksieck
    Mar 5, 2012
    From an editor interested in accuracy, here are few more thoughts about Valor:

    The photo on p. 129 is of a rock that resembles a pinnacle, which does happen to be just off of the approach "trail" (the location described for route #5), on the way up and left to a short wall that is not pictured in the book. Both rocks lie above and behind the top of Mind Shift Cliff.

    On the "pinnacle," we did a 45-foot route that underclings a short, diagonal roof on the right side of the rock to gain an arete, has four bolts, and could be 11c/d. The author called the 11c/d "Schizophrenia," but he called the route on the pInnacle "The Pinnacle of Success."

    On the small wall, we did a 80-foot route that climbs a short face to gain a finger crack and other intermittent cracks, has two bolts, takes gear up to 1.5 inches, could be 11b/c, and has NO bolted anchor. The author called the 11b/c "The Pinnacle of Success," but he called the route on the short wall "Schizophrenia." Confused? I think the author is. Both routes are NOT on the same rock, as indicated in the photo on p. 129.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 15, 2012
    From Bev Baker, USFS wildlife biologist:

    U.S. Forest Service to reopen most climbing areas in Boulder Canyon

    www.fs.usda.gov/arp
    Contact: Boulder Ranger Station Visitor Information Services,

    (303) 541-2500

    Boulder, Colo. March 15 – This Mon., March 19, the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2012.
    By suckMYbistrong Bistrong
    Jun 1, 2012
    Hi! I am new to Boulder, I have a question about top roping in the area. I am a new climber, and I don't know how to set up anchors using trees, or rocks, I only know how to set up TR anchors using bolts. Are there any routes between 5.7 and 5.10 where I can hike up to the bolts to set up TR anchors?
    By Parker Pflaum
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 8, 2013
    I left a watch at The Riviera area (in the Bihedral) of Boulder Canyon on Friday, April 5th. If found, please respond to this post. The watch is a cheap, Target, Casio, Quartz, black watch with an analog, white face.
    By Joe Sambataro
    From: Seattle, WA
    Oct 28, 2013
    New Study Shows Climbers are Main Recreational Users of Boulder Canyon

    Follow the link for more information. Thanks to all the volunteers who completed the surveys.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Feb 3, 2014
    From Bev Baker:

    Date: Feb. 3, 2014

    BOULDER, Colo. – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea... (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. It is against Federal and State law to disturb any nesting bird of prey.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence. “Closures in Boulder Canyon are vitally important to protect one of only a handful of known golden eagle nesting territories in Boulder County. Their specific habitat needs limit what areas they can use for mating and fledging their young,” said Sylvia Clark, Boulder District Ranger. Contact Boulder Ranger District at 303-541-2500 for more information.
    By Nick Hamel
    Apr 21, 2014
    I'm headed to Boulder Canyon in a few weeks and was wondering where the best place to camp is. I don't need anything fancy, just a place fairly close to the climbing.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 22, 2014
    From the news: they are going to dredge Boulder Creek from Boulder Falls all the way downstream. It will close the creek to playing/being in the water with a reported $1000 fine for violators.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jul 29, 2014
    From Bev Baker, USFS Wildlife Biologist:

    BOULDER, Colo. – The Boulder Ranger District of the Roosevelt National Forest will lift the golden eagle climbing closure for the Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress climbing areas in Boulder Canyon on July 31.

    For the most current closure information, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit the website at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/recrea....
    By Josh Warfield
    Jun 30, 2015
    Watch your valuables, people. I left my car locked but with the windows cracked at the parking for Sherwood Forest. I came back and someone had taken all the cash from my wallet. Luckily they didn't take any climbing gear or any credit cards or anything, but I'm probably not gonna leave the windows cracked again....
    By Josiah Cooper
    From: Lenexa, KS
    Aug 3, 2015
    This area has seen a ton of development in recent history as I understand. Are there any up-to-date guides to the area available? On the other hand, does anyone with good beta on the place want to meet up here later this month and do some wall crawling?
    By rick s
    Apr 22, 2016
    Forgot belay specs at Animal World Thursday, April 21. Wondering if anyone picked them up.

    Please message me, and I can come meet you.

    Thanks!
    By Chris Archer
    Aug 16, 2016
    Found book, "Daring to Trust" by David Richo and journal, at Animal World parking lot in Boulder Canyon, August 14, 2016.

    Contact me at:
    sarahaspaulding@gmail.com
    By Kenny Danngg
    Sep 14, 2016
    Found a belay device at Oceanic Wall in Lower Dream Canyon.
    Name the device and color, and I'll give it back to you.

    714- three Six Nine - 5662
    Kenny
    By Joshua Lambert
    Nov 10, 2016
    Boulder County Transportation, in partnership with the City of Boulder and Colorado Department of Transportation, is evaluating plans to extend the Boulder Canyon Trail further west along SH 119/Boulder Canyon Drive.

    The planned extension will result in a 10-foot wide trail from the current terminus near Fourmile Canyon Drive west to Chapman Drive, including a potential grade-separated connection to Fourmile Canyon Drive and the Betasso Preserve Open Space. The trail extension will improve safety for cyclists, pedestrians, and motor vehicles traveling in Boulder Canyon.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 28, 2017
    From Bev Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:

    To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2017. The closures include rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon....

    Effective through July 31, 2017, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    “These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.

    The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

    Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/recre....
    By Ryan Petker
    Apr 25, 2017
    Rock Climbing Photo: Does anyone know this route/ crag?
    Does anyone know this route/ crag?


    Rock Climbing Photo: The location of picture.
    The location of picture.


    Does anyone recognize this route/ crag? I have spent days on MP looking for this route but cannot find a comparable picture.

    Thank you.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 27, 2017
    Ryan, this I believe is the trad line, now retrobolted, called Crack Where The Sun Don't Shine, 9-.

    There is a photo: mountainproject.com/v/10725254... with a climber on the route to the right that has features that seem quite similar.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 29, 2017
    Leo, you are most certainly correct with respect to where that line is, and someone ought to remove those bolts.
    By Emma oster
    May 6, 2017
    Lost necklace today at the Avalon crag. Amazonite and silver pendant on a silver chain. If found, please text six one 7 five 99 2 zero 4 one. It's a one of a kind piece and dearly beloved. Safe and happy climbing!

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