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The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bertha S 
Bluesfish S 
Bottoms Up T,TR 
Chum S,TR 
Crack  T 
Crack Au Lait T 
Curious George TR 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Flying Fish S 
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 
Good Ju-Ju T 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Harambe Lives 
Harambe's Mombé 
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
Hidden Slab 
High Tide S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Isle of Mouse T,TR 
Jaws S 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Narrow Face T,TR 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
Prow TR 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Dollar  S 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Side of Mouse TR 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 
Unsorted Routes:

Bottoms Up 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: an iguanadon
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2016

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Rich Kelly going right side in.

Description 

This is a slightly inviting chimney to those of us iguanadon types. Oddly, it climbs somewhat like a desert route. Now perhaps the most interesting part is that you could lead this with a #1 Camalot rack and smaller.

Ascend the wide crack/chimney to the left of Good Ju-Ju on easier-than-it-looks climbing. On my first lead of it, I brought up some Craig Luebben's thesis Bigbros thinking I'd need them. Fiddling with a so-so #3 and clipping it, I found a blind #1 Camalot placement at that level further in. You can offwidth chimney (as I did the first go) or face climb a bit on the outside. Left side in or right side in works a bit higher. Gain the ledge. Now, you can do Good Ju-Ju's finish to the right or finish with a minor between the ears crux to the left. There's a blue Alien, #0 TCU spot reachable from the ledge. A wee nip of courage will get you up to the top. For what it's worth, on first lead, I got on top, placed a #0.75 Camalot, and downscrambled to Good Ju-Ju's anchor, but the crack for the #0.75 isn't supported, so I unclipped it leaving the directional above the top of the left crux as the directional for seconds.

Location 

This starts just left of Good Ju-Ju.

Protection 

What worked: #3 Bigbro (optional), #1 Camalot, red Alien, #0.5, blue Alien, #0 TCU, green Alien, and a #0.75 (super iffy). 4 longer (24") slings are useful. Lower/rap off Good Ju-Ju's anchor.


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