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Bottoms Last Longer T 

Bottoms Last Longer 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Refael Whyte, Cameron Fraser
Page Views: 21
Submitted By: Cameron Fraser on Feb 27, 2017

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Some of the ascents made in the area

Description 

A new route that may be subject to change if some bolts and/or abseil anchors are added. Description is for how it was done on the FA.

P1 - (20) - 15m
Start up easy ground to the obvious finger crack on mostly good quality rock. Climb the finger crack until it runs out. Delicate but well protected moves to rock/mantle over onto the arete to the right. Continue up the arete/face past some blocky ground/ lose holds to a small ledge. Assemble a trad anchor here (wires, small cams, tricams).

P2 (20) - 15m
From the anchor climb the face with the hand crack, and bridge with the sidewall where needed. Place gear high in the crack where it turns overhanging. Bridge as high as you can, then break left away from the crack and pull over the roof (crux). This may one day be the top of the route. For now, head up the chossy face with minimal real protection, then mantle onto a very steep grassy face. Run it out for 10m up the very steep grassy grassy face with no protection until you can find a tree to belay off.

Descend by abseiling off a tree, or head further up the grassy face to the far right end of Odyssey Wall. From here you can head left to the base of the Odyssey and climb it to get out, or head even further left and abseil off the tree with the chain around it.

Location 

From the top of Bennys Koura Circus walk along the bushy ledge for about 5 minutes. You will come to two areas of exposed rock, one slightly higher and one slightly lower. The lower area has a distinctive finger crack on the right hand face. This is the start of the line.

Protection 

Cams 0.2 - 2, wires, tricams


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