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Bottom Feeder 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jeff Jackson
Page Views: 892
Submitted By: WAGbag on Nov 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Pimp coat throws on the thuggy classic! Photo by F...


Up off the block and trend right through the flake. Hang a loooong bitch sling if you don't like the runout to the anchors


Left of Guppie


8 bolts + Anchors

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By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Jan 15, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Fun route and climbs up a cool section of stone. The start and first bolt are shared with Big Blue. Some tufa moves leads to a tricky undercling section, then a long ways of enjoyable steep climbing. It is probably only 11+ / 12- to here. At the crux the wall blanks out and you have to make a huge move off a good undercling hueco to a far away crimp. Stick this and continue up on steep ground with a few powerful moves and throws. The upper section will be exciting if you haven't worked the moves and there isn't a sling hanging from the anchors. At least it will be all air!

If you can stick the crux than this will probably be an easy tick. Many have massive issues with the powerful throw though.
By Chris Ketchum
Dec 17, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Apparently a jug tufa once allowed for an excellent rest at the last bolt, but the tufa ripped off several weeks ago. The remaining holds afford only a very brief shake before the upper crux. The grade probably hasn't changed, but the upper moves make for a serious redpoint crux after you've built up a pump. Felt like a stiff .12d.

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