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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 1,754
Submitted By: doligo on Sep 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Top of the crack as you can see from the ground - ...


Recommended finish of the Diagonal and Bottle slides. Climbed it in September 2010, after getting off-route (intended to climb the Eagle Slide). Luckily we had a 30m rope, few slings and two large hexes. It is one pitch but I gave it a grade II, as it involves at least 2 hours of bushwacking followed by climbing a fairly steep and mossy slide.


The route is located on the steep vertical wall after you finish either Bottle or Diagonal Slides. I got on it from the Diagonal - from top of the slide, bushwack straight up till you come to a vertical wall. Walk approx. 15 feet till you see the obvious vertical crack in a right-facing corner. According to "Adirondack Book" the crack is located 150 feet right from the top of the Bottle slide.

Descent: Bushwack to the top till you get on the marked trail, turn right to the summit, from where you descent via Roaring Brook Trail back to your car.


There is a piton 20 feet off the ground. Large to medium pro to a belay off the tree. Can be done in approach shoes, but rock shoes are recommended if the crack is wet (most likely) and the finish is a fairly run-out slab. 30m rope just makes it.

Photos of Bottleneck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up Bottleneck.
BETA PHOTO: Leading up Bottleneck.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottle Slide Headwall in Winter - If I remember co...
BETA PHOTO: Bottle Slide Headwall in Winter - If I remember co...

Comments on Bottleneck Add Comment
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By Ian Dibbs
Jul 13, 2012

If you decide not to climb the 5.5 rock band exit on the left side since the right side is; long, slow and dangerous because of all the loose dirt on th esteep slope. When hitting the trail at the top go right to get back to Giant parking areas. Trail at top of Giant is both ADK (DEC) trail # 47 and #48 ( they split later)
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Jun 20, 2016

A route with amazing positioning above the cirque of Giant Mountain's West Face-wish I hadn't packed away my camera before leading! Some solid crack moves but pretty secure, only some slime in the cracks (we climbed after a dry few days). Overall, I found the quality to be pretty good. I second the gear suggestion- (Beta alert) I only had a single set of cams and I wish I had a double of a BD #2 or #3. Tricams may be useful for protecting the runout if you really look around, but the climbing after is quite easy.

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