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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Late spring to fall
Page Views: 575
Submitted By: will.hanson on Jul 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Bottlecap


The crux is a roof/ceiling that is shaped like a bottle cap (hence the name). Climb right of the ceiling to the face and then 40 feet to the top-chains. First 30 feet are tough to protect, but scaling the roof is well worth the climb.


The closest climb to the Playground.


Standard rack - Lots of opportunity for nuts.

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By morgoth70
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 20, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb has been known as Guillotine for as long as I can remember. That being said, it's an EXCELLENT route, one of the best 10s in Oregon, IMHO :-)
Two beautiful thin cracks bookend a smooth face. My favorite way to climb it is to stem across the twin dihedrals. Pulling the roof is always a rush.
By das1405
From: Portland
May 2, 2016

Seems like Guillotine is over in first section of wall (playground), left of "For Pete's Sake". Bottlecap is one of the first climbs you see once you come to Schoolroom cracks. Both of these climbs resemble their namesake. Of course I could be wrong...
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Jul 7, 2016

This climb is Bottlecap. NWOR has the best guide for this area and the section was written by one of the original developers.

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