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g. The Righteous and the Wicked Sector
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18 and Life S 
19’s In The House S 
AF in PA S 
Avant Garden S 
Both Ends Burning S 
Both Ends Burning Variation S 
Final Cut S 
Marriage by Napster S 
Righteous and the Wicked, The S 
Rockin’ Peacock S 
Upper Cut TR 

Both Ends Burning Variation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 240
Submitted By: Climberdude on Jul 23, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Rockin' Peacock (blue, face and roof on left) ...

Description 

2/3s way up "Both Ends Burning" move right up over little overlap/roof to pass the last 2 bolts on the right.

Location 

see "Both Ends Burning"

Protection 

see "Both Ends Burning"


Comments on Both Ends Burning Variation Add Comment
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By Tim Schafstall
Nov 26, 2016

IMO, this is one of the best 5.10 climbs at Safe Harbor. The 10a version is less contrived than the 10d version. Great moves, great rock. However, be aware there are multiple 5.9-10a moves with heady clips, tricky route finding, and some nasty fall potential onto a sloping ledge between bolts 1 and 2 if you miss the clip. If 10a is your limit, might want to think hard before hopping on this.

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