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Born to Be Wild 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eben Farnworth
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: RyderS Stroud on Dec 27, 2014

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The crack climbing ends here on the route. Prepare...

Description 

This climb will rely less on the crack climbing technique that defines Liming climbing and more on your ability to boulder high off the deck.

Start up the corner that leads to a finger tips-sized roof crack located to the left of the inverted roof offwidth "Over the Rainbow." Jam and squeeze your way to a nice rest ledge beneath the roof (corner crack could use more cleaning).

Place some gear over your head and/or out into the crack (place longer runners on the initial pieces to avoid rope drag) and traverse out the pumpy roof crack. Reach overhead and turn the roof with some gymnastic "oomf" to find a decent hold, and contort your way to a standing position using a faint crack above the roof. The chains will be just above.

Location 

To the left of the massive offwidth roof of "Over the Rainbow" and to the right of "Dirt Devil."

Protection 

Single #2 C3 (yellow)
Single #.1 (X4; optional)
Triple #.3
Single #.4
Single #2
Single #3


Photos of Born to Be Wild Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Turning the roof on Born to Be Wild.
Turning the roof on Born to Be Wild.

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