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Boots for the Bugaboos
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Feb 2, 2011
I don't know if this should be in the Canada section, but here goes. We are planning a summer trip to Northern States and Canada; Squamish- Bugaboos- Tetons etc. Coming from California area we are excited about long rock routes with the alpine experience. We aren't planning on doing snow/ice routes, and don't have mountaineering boots yet. I know that we will have to have lightweight crampons and ice axe for pre dawn approaches on firm snow, but do we need real mountaineering boots? can we get away with approach shoes with gaiters? or what about some of these high top approach shoes like the 5.10 exum guides. What do the fast and light bugaboo climbers use?

thanks for any help
Daryl Teittinen
From Truckee CA
Joined Jan 14, 2011
1 points
Feb 2, 2011
Went to the Bugs a few years ago. Approach / tennis shoes with light weight crampons and gaitors works great. Leave the old school mountaineering boots at home. Too heavy. Overkill.

Bugs is a very special place.

From Denver
Joined Apr 12, 2006
32 points
Feb 2, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: ...And a few Push-ups just for fun.
Just there this summer, I took a pair of Lowe Alpine Guides and they did great. Get some strap on crampons and you’ll be set.

Also, Take a nice pair of slip-ons or sandals for when you’re back at base camp and you’ll be comfortable after the hiking.
Have an awesome time.
Jason Gilbert
From Lakewood
Joined Nov 22, 2002
326 points
Feb 2, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Depending on the season, guide tennies or similar is your lightweight option... They worked fine for me but is probably less support/warmth/waterproofness than most would want... Otherwise the La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot would be my next suggestion...

Another weight saver is to share 1 pair of crampons, if your both comfortable on the terrain, conditions permit easy approach/descent, etc...
We never used gaiters and only used crampons a lil bit, but are essential for each person to have at camp. Try and avoid the cols as they are the most accident prone... But sometimes thats your access to your route of choice...

Do research on your intended routes and back-up plan routes and check the approach/descent beta... Some routes you do not even need crampons for any part of the climb, approach or descent... Will stop my rambling, hope this helps. Have fun!!!
Jon Griffin
From Boulder, Co
Joined Feb 26, 2009
210 points
Feb 2, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Ko...
Regular approach shoes worked fine for me. Only thing I'd do different next time is bring ones with goretex lining or something similar. Slushy snow in the afternoons and the inevitable rain shower will get your shoes wet - and they stay wet up there (I ended up just using plastic bags over my socks before putting on shoes, makes for a sloppy fit, but it works). Erik W
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 8, 2007
313 points
Feb 8, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Mastigouche
I've done the Bugs with Salomon Super Mountain Guides 9, was overkill but most of my group had plastic and a couple had Nepals.
I'd stick with a pair of light Alpine boots:

Garmont Tower 780g
Scarpa Charmoz 1480g
La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX 742g
La Sportiva Trango S ALP GTX 750g

I've got the Charmoz and love them, they fit my foot, you have to try them out like a 1/2hr or more in the store or bring them home to see what happens after a couple hours on your feet.
From Montreal, Quebec
Joined Nov 27, 2006
8,841 points
Feb 9, 2011
thanks everyone,
It seems like the consensus is approach shoes will work well. I tried on a set of the BD neve crampons with my scarpa zens the other day and they fit great, but the ankle strap wasn't super comfy over my foot. Oh well, I will figure it out.

Thanks for the advice,
Daryl Teittinen
From Truckee CA
Joined Jan 14, 2011
1 points
Mar 6, 2011
Only been once, in August of 2008. I used Asolo Fugitives (a pretty lightweight boot) and I was really happy (with strap-on aluminum crampons).

I wouldn't have been comfortable in approach shoes at least on one of our approaches (down around Snowpatch Spire from Applebee Dome, and up to the Pigeon-Howser Tower Col). It was pretty ice and a little sketchy even with decent boots, crampons and an axe. We wouldn't have gone up it in approach shoes, but maybe there is a different way.

I'm also pretty comfortable on alpine ice, steep snow, etc. If you're not, I think you'll definitely prefer having that little bit of extra comfort of having at least lightweight boots rather than approach shoes. But that's just my two cents.
Joined Nov 1, 2006
68 points
Mar 6, 2011
Having been to the Bugs many times I think a pair of lightweight boots with strap on aluminum crampons are key. In good weather and soft conditions you could get around in appoach shoes with an axe on some appoaches but you'll have soaking wet feet and it'd be pretty sketchy on the cols if it cools off and freezes. Norm Larson
From Wilson, Wy.
Joined Jan 26, 2008
50 points
Mar 6, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
I did all kinds of stuff there BITD in Robbins shoes and gaitors. Robbins shoes were stiff and I think a stiff shoe matters on snow; flexible shoes slip more easily. If I was going back today I think the LS Ganda or maybe the Ganda Guide would be perfect (except for the price). Those are also perfect Teton shoes. Dialing the fit so that you can hike and climb well in them is the key challenge. rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
544 points

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