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Jap Head
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Authentic Life T,S 
Bootle Call T 
Bootleful T 
Crimson Crescent T 
Kamikaze Corner T 
Tower of Babylon- regular route T 
Tower of Boodle T 
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YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kole Decou, Manuel Rangel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 729
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Feb 6, 2007

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I tried to get the FA but failed at the lower face...


Starts as a tricky bolted face then thru roofs to overhung tight hands in an overhung dihedral. The rock is very clean and solid for most of the way, except the very end, go left to face for a ways then onto the limestone band.


Make your way up the drainage just south of the tower to the west, wander to the southeast end of tower and find the first 6 bolts below a striking dihedral 50' above. First clip is easy and serves as the anchor as well.


6 bolts, nuts, double purple to yellow camalots, #4 camalot.

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By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 6, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This climb is sustained, tricky, and well protected on nice rock. I used 3 #1 Camalots. I'd bring a #3 also, it can be placed after the thin hands section. (And the #4 Manny suggested is an old size #4)

The Tower of Bootle makes a good little cragging area, with a nice 5.10 and 2 classic 5.11's on the south face, and an ok 5.10 on the north face. The 5.11's can be toproped after leading one of the 10's.

An extra word of cation since I'd hate to see someone rap or lower off the end of the rope:
A 60m rope will make it off Bootleful JUST barely. BE CAREFUL!!! We haven't tested this rap with a 60m rope since we used a 70. Anyone planning on going to the Tower of Bootle should consider bringing 2 60m ropes (or a 70) because they are required to rap the MAJAK Line. If you only bring 1 60, you can rap from the MAJAK Line anchors to the Bootleful anchors, or you can rap the north face to get down with 1 rope.

  • See Topo in Jap Head section.
By Ryan Z
Sep 6, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Route was extremely sandy when I climbed it. Not to mention I was breaking rock everywhere. Not sure where the 5.11+ or even 5.11 came from. Seemed like every other 10+ pitch in Sedona.

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