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Booted from the Galley 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Andy Bennett, Luis Cisneros, Vince Bates
New Route: Yes
Season: Not winter
Page Views: 620
Submitted By: Andy Bennett on Jul 20, 2016

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J.G. pulling into the corner.



After exploring many of the intimidating, high quality routes on Neptune, my eye was inescapably drawn to the last unclimbed dihedral systems on the North Face…but how to access them? And what of the massive daggers of loose granite guarding the upper reaches, threatening to guillotine any would-be suitors?

It is exhausting to recall how much work went into producing this route, but in the end it turned out to be well worth the effort. Although slightly chossy and a bit contrived at the finish, this one should prove to be another worthy addition to this fantastic cliff. Three unique, engaging, and increasingly difficult cruxes crown the route, with outrageous positioning and exposure, and that excellent feature climbing that only the Reef can provide. A bit of good ole “Reef spice” will keep you on your toes.

Tie a knot in the end of your rope. Start up juggy, overhanging terrain directly above the “party ledge”, just left of Ma’adim, climbing past four bolts. Pull the bulge and establish yourself in the corner. Plug in a few finger size pieces to protect the moves to the next bolt. Sequential laybacking and stemming will get you into position for your next challenge. Launch yourself into the Galley. Fight hard for your dinner. Ball-nuts and/or microcams through finger-size will get you a place at the table. Shake out and clip a bolt, pull the roof on the left, and establish in the next corner. At this point poorer rock may give you pause, but rest assured that it has been well-tested. Above, you may choose to bail out right onto Ma’adim’s “escape pitch” corner (burly 5.9, bring extra larger hand-sized gear), or finish on the Galley’s final crux arete. If you’re really tall and/or long, you may be able to clip the Galley’s final bolts from the edge of the corner, avoiding some of the crux. But you came for a challenge, right? Stay left and experience the full value finish. Decipher cryptic edges and fins to unlock a cool finish with a finger slot and bomber thank-god hand jam horizontal. Plug in a piece and clip the chains. You’ve ridden the Galley.



Just left of Ma'adim, just right of Cheap Shot. Starts of the "Party Ledge"


70M ROPE; 9 bolts; doubles 0.2-0.5; one #2 camalot; microcams, and/or Ballnuts and stoppers if you like; and a few sling draws. Bring a few large hand-sized pieces if you'd like to bail out right at the finish to Ma'adim's Escape Pitch (you'll need pay attention to where you traverse left to lower off)

Photos of Booted from the Galley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Raines stemming for glory
Raines stemming for glory
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Wilson, in the Galley. You can see Ma'adim...
BETA PHOTO: Dan Wilson, in the Galley. You can see Ma'adim...

Comments on Booted from the Galley Add Comment
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By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 20, 2016

This route has been led on mainly gear by Austin Sobotka, who skipped the first three bolts and the final bolt in the Galley. After lengthy discussions about rock quality and safety, we chose not to remove these bolts. Although the rock at the bottom of the climb is decently-fissured, it is quite hollow and flexible and is marked by committing climbing. Choose your own adventure.
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 21, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Booted from the Galley is a great line, and without a question a worthy contribution to one of Southern AZ's best crags. Huge thanks to Andy and friends for polishing this gem!

As Andy mentioned, the line can be done on mostly gear, skipping the first three (perhaps also fourth?) bolts as well as the bolt at the end of the crux dihedral. However, for the first three bolts, care will need to be taken to find the best placements. I personally tested the gear in the crux dihedral with a thirty footer, so that at least seems to be undeniably bomber.

The climb is fairly burly, and if you don't find the proper beta (especially on the second and third cruxes) is going to feel stupid hard for .12. If you do find the correct beta, it still might feel hard for .12 ;).

One final note. Be attentive to the gear you place after the fourth bolt, in the beginning of the groove/dihedral. The little pockets are quite polished, and I pulled a few seemingly solid cams out just by tugging on them. Find a constriction and/or build a small nest. It's not far to the next bolt, but if you blew it without gear it would be a potentially ugly fall.

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