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Boot Lead 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a X

Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a X [details]
FA: Skip Guerin and Chip Ruckgaber, 1983
Page Views: 2,507
Submitted By: adam brink on Mar 1, 2001

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Skip Guerin and Chip Ruckgaber on 1st ascent of Th...

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  • Description 

    This excellent toprope or very serious lead is located on the pretty slab just to the left of the start of Jackson's Wall Direct. The route follows a very tapered crack that runs horizontal for about ten feet and then heads straight up. While most toprope this pitch, it is an excellent route to headpoint and is a must do for anyone with a fondness for granite slabs. A word of advice though, get it wired before leading it.

    This route was first led by local climber Chip ? and his partner...a brillant ascent. If you know the names of these brave lads, please fix the ascent info. Thanks.


    There are anchors at the top of the first pitch of Jackson's Wall Direct (aka South Face) for toproping For leading, there is only one piece of gear, a very suspect aid piece past the first crux.

    Comments on Boot Lead Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 5, 2002

    First freed on lead by Skip Guerin and Chip Ruckgaber. There actually is a TCU placement to "protect" the crux, but it takes up a good undercling hold and makes the move a bit harder. Also, the story I've heard is when first led a hammer was used to fix gear (a pin and a head) that has since been removed. It would be easy enough to ask Chip if this is true. A better top rope.
    By Fred Vanden Bergh
    Jul 23, 2002

    Close To The Edge, the bolted line immediately to the left of this route, is rated a mere letter grade harder (12 a/b), my humble a whole 'nuther ball o' wax. I was able to toprope, sans falls (baaaarely), Boot Lead, but was completely shut down on Close To The Edge. Moving off the good feet into the blank section seemed essentially free from the burdens of any hand holds whatsoever...Very, very balancy stuff, both of these climbs, but at least Boot Lead has a hold or two here and there!

    I enjoyed TRing Boot Lead very much - the lead would be thrilling enough to watch. I can't imagine the lead myself, with the undercling clogged with an alien.

    Wear your stickiest rubber, and don't do it on a hot day... (I wonder if Skip did it barefoot ?!? ;-)
    By Fred Vanden Bergh
    Jul 25, 2002

    (I'm the AC above...forgot to entire my name.)

    Glad to hear the agreement re: Close To The certainly felt like hard 12 to me...heck, it may as well have been 5.14. :-) If I remember correctly, the best hold on the route sits near the 2nd bolt, and the 3rd definitely seems like it would be the harder clip of the two...of course, I didn't lead it so... Also, the only fixed gear in Boot Lead now (again, if memory serves) is a fairly abused, small hex, well above the first (and harder) crux. Still, I'm sure its a welcome clip once there, for those bold enough to lead this route.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Apr 17, 2015
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X

    Perhaps I am being picky, but if my memory serves me correctly, Skip led this route in 1982 not 1983. I guess I will have to dig up my old "Climbing" magazines in my storage & see if this info exists. As for the climb, it feels like .12a on a top rope. I have not led it.

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