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Plumb Line Gully
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1st pitch: Lynn Wheeler and Jeff Newsome. 2nd pitch: Jeff Newsome and Les Ellison. Circa 1980/81
Page Views: 3,062
Submitted By: Ben Sukow on Sep 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Late season tanning.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Follow the regular approach to plumb line, but go right up the plumb line gully rather than left to plumb line. Bushwack a ways up the gully until a right leaning finger crack appears to your left. Pitch 1 climbs a rising traverse up the crack using a cool mix of liebacking and finger locks. Expend good fingers coupled with exfoliating granite foot holds (these should clean up with more traffic). The second pitch is 5.9- s. If you're in the area of plumb line, this climb is well worth doing.


Nuts and small cams. Doubles or triples of green and yellow aliens are advised. Due to the rising traverse on the first pitch, either back cleaning or a fair amount of small cams are needed to avoid ground fall. Don't forget to protect the second. There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of the first pitch.

Photos of Boomerang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: at the crux
at the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Waiting for something to come back around...
Waiting for something to come back around...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch 1
Looking up pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: beautiful crack.
beautiful crack.

Comments on Boomerang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 22, 2017
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 22, 2005

fun route!! Punch it!!
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jun 12, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pitch one is excellent- pumpy locks with an occasional lieback thrown in. A couple of finger finger sized cams are nice and a #3 camalot is handy on the exit (tipped out #2 works). The occasional small foothold saves the day and the forearms, but the grit can be a bit unnerving given the vague deck potential.
By jeff newsom
Aug 18, 2008

The first ascent of the first pitch was done by Lynn Wheeler and I. Les Ellison added the second pitch at a later date.This was around 1980/81.........Cheers,Jeff Newsom
By mountainsense
Nov 9, 2009

I agree with TP--the second pitch is an adventure: undercling-liebacks on crumbly rock, a few relics of fixed nonsense and a gripping mantle to finish things off. Worthy, for sure, but--perhaps--not worth it.
By Alec LaLonde
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this was a bit harder than Plumb Line, definitely more sustained and with an equally tricky crux. Unfortunately much dirtier than its neighbor.
By Ben Folsom
Jan 16, 2012

Both pitches can be combined into one long 70 meter pitch (just barely).
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 27, 2012

Pitch one is great. Pitch 2 is great way to spice up your life. Expect some slabby face climbing protected by ratty slung pitons intermixed with an occasional cam in a pod, with a final long undercling crack to finish it out. A little gritty, but never R though one roof must be pulled with gear at your feet. Doubles small c3's to .5 camalot pretty mandatory for pitch 2, and your belay is a slung bushel. Could use a bolted belay here. Overall really fun climb.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 22, 2014

Stiff route, quite a bit harder than most 5.10a climbs in LCC. Vaguely reminiscent of Disco Duck, but without any chickenheads for feet.

Watch for the extremely sharp rope-eating crack towards the top. Core-shot my rope badly.
By choppinBolts
Oct 16, 2014

Pitch 2 is to be avoided in my opinion. I might say it was the worst pitch I've climbed in LCC.
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Apr 25, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

People! Get on this route! It is just as good if not better than Plumb Line. Its right on for 10a, lots of edges out right to stand on and great gear the whole way. If you are doing Plumb Line you definitely need to do this.

doubles BD .3-.5
Single BD .75-3 & .1-.2
By Tyler Needham
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 22, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Really phenomenal route (I think it's cleaned up a lot since the early comments). Crux section where the feet disappear felt a bit harder than 10a, but the locks are good and so is the gear.

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