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Tectonic Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball and Chain S 
Continental Drift T 
Cottonmouth (a.k.a. Boom-Slang) S 
Dime a Dozen S 
Fifth Bolt Faith S 
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky S 
Paraplegic Power T 
Plate Tectonics S 
Serpentine S 
Tall Cool One S 

Cottonmouth (a.k.a. Boom-Slang) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Justin Miniard (established by Dustin Stephens)
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: Aaron Hwang on Oct 27, 2015  with updates from Corona

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Looking up from the ground


Easy start leads to ultra technical / ridiculously large moves. There's a lot of chalk going out left at the third bolt going to four. It looks as though the route boomerangs around left then up right back to the bolt. Or, go direct with giant moves or tiny intermediates. Either way, try to have fun!

Note: The medallion at the base of the route says "Boom-Slang 5.11c.) It feels more like 5.12c!


To the right of Serpentine


Brand new wave bolts to anchors

Comments on Cottonmouth (a.k.a. Boom-Slang) Add Comment
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By Dustin Stephens
Jan 13, 2016
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Did you do the route? Just curious how hard you thought it was if so.
By Aaron Hwang
Jan 25, 2016

I attempted this route and reached the top but I did not send. I couldn't figure out the intended line but the crux did not feel 5.11c to me and my 5'6" height. Perhaps I'm so used to the Red's overhanging nature that this face climb simply felt hard.
By Dustin Stephens
Feb 26, 2016
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

I'm not sure if anyone ever sent it or not. The crux move is at least V5-6, so you can update the grade to 12+ if you want (the online guide grade and Muir valley tag at the base are wrong)
By Corona
Nov 18, 2016
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

So I onsighted Ball and Chain (the 12b to Boom-Slang's right) in good conditions, but was utterly unable to do the move on this climb on the same day. Initially, I was inclined to call this the same grade, but I think we need to hear from someone who's actually sent it first. I tried an all points off dyno, a fig4, and drop kneeing above my head to no avail. No sign of hold breakage, either. It goes, I'm sure, but it's damn hard. Much harder than the very similar crux of Ball and Chain

Trying to find out more info on it later, I came across the comments on the guide page for Cottonmouth Looks like the establisher never FFA'd it. The guy that freed it guessed the grade at 5.12b, with other commenters that did not send it calling it V5/V6. I didn't send it either, so I can't be sure what the move goes at. Going by this chart, it would be 5.12d if V5 or 5.13a if V6.

Grading single move climbs is a pain--I'm glad Rumney isn't my home Ball and Chain--one of the grades eventually should probably be adjusted up or down.

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