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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
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Bookmark OW 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 869
Submitted By: jason seaver on Mar 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Sorry, it's the only half-decent picture I have of...

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Decent climbing in the lower crack leads to a brief, but stout, battle in the clean and enjoyable OW. Easier and dirtier wideness leads to the top from where you can scramble down right.

This cutting-edge free climb was redpointed on the second ground-up attempt, after returning a year after the first attempt with the proper wide gear.

As far as I can tell this is a first ascent, but it's hard to believe Snively or Westbay or some other hardman didn't saunter up it in flip-flops decades ago. But I guess it's beilevable that they just never bothered, as well. So, I'll post it here as the Bookmark OW, and try to think of a name if no one else claims it. It's definitely a pitch worth doing if you enjoy the wide cracks.


This pitch is on the lowest slab on the Bookmark, where the approach trail reaches the cliff. From where the trail hits the crag, beneath the route Rusty’s Pillars, go right 40-50 feet to where a large hard-leaning pine tree grows close to the cliff. Behind the tree find a right angling crack line that leads to a gaping offwidth crack.


Standard rack with a few big pieces. One #5 Friend and two #6 Friends would be optimal I think.

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