|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 115'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Dave Evan, Margy Floyd & Craig Fry, 4/85|
|Submitted By:||Isaac T. on Jan 19, 2009|
|Comments on Bookman Pitman||Add Comment|
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By Chris D
From: the couch
Feb 28, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
This climb might be 5.6 if you spend your climbing days stemming out on steep dihedrals, but if that's not the case, be prepared for an eye-popping surprise. Bartlett's book calls it 5.7 PG in the text, then it's labeled 5.6 on the topo and in the index.
Be a solid 5.7 leader before heading up this short, fun route. That's my tip. The lieback moves that get you up to the crux are fun and pretty easy. You'll find the crack just right for fingers and plenty deep.
Here's a bit of video that a friend took of me flailing past the crux move on this climb. Ha!
Passing the Crux on Bookman Pitman