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Book Of Rhymes 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bret Ruckman & Mark Bennet '83
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: Greg Gavin on Jul 24, 2012

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Ross on the long first pitch

Description 

A good climb that makes you think. The line looks circuitous and confounding from far away, but becomes clear once on the rock.

Start by scrambling up easy terrain in the corner using a 4 inch crack for a first piece. Shuffle left and gain a crack system in the center of the face. Using a little bit of everything to get up this section shuffle left once more until on the arete. Crack's and good holds will bring you up to the belay which as of now is a new SS bolt with a button head just above. Worth a lap just for this one pitch.

Pitch 2 traverses the upper horizontal that seems to defy logic, and make you wonder what they were thinking when they decided to go for that traverse!

Location 

About 100ft east of Hyperform. The route is the last large dihedral east of the main hyperform wall area.

note the obvious green patina and you've found it.

Protection 

Doubles to #3 with a 4 inch piece at the beginning. The route is longer than it looks and loves stoppers so take plenty of slings.

2 bolt rap anchor to descend pitch one (rappel to the north). If continuing onto pitch two rappel as for thunder crack.


Photos of Book Of Rhymes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of the entire route
BETA PHOTO: Photo of the entire route
Rock Climbing Photo: Book of Rhymes climbs the left wall of the obvious...
BETA PHOTO: Book of Rhymes climbs the left wall of the obvious...

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By Michael Bolton
From: Midvale, UT
Aug 1, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We rappelled from the bolted anchor at the top of pitch one with a 60m to another anchor directly below. Tie knots in the ends of the rope and extend your device to reach the next anchor if using a 60m rope, or you'll rap off the ends.

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