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Boognish Tower
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Boognish Tower T,S 

Boognish Tower 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Bucher, Taylor Bond, Drake Buckingham
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,819
Submitted By: paul bucher on Jun 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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inside the chim chim

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


the whole thing is crux; somewhat sustained 5.9 chimney work with spicy start and finish moves. stellar, tall, big view, spacious summit. very well protected. clean. shade. best to belay inside chimney. a little loose ground outside. the cam is optional but nice. a #2 camalot would be tipped out and the #3 that i had was tight. a 3 1/2 friend would be perfect. fairly wild climb. SIC FUN! Note: there's a nice crack in the back of the chimney (on raptor) that, as of now, is up for grabs. Note #2. a word on the rating. were gona need a consensus. in the end we went with 10-. i'd rather it be an easy 10- than a sandbag 5.9. we don't think the moves are harder than 5.9, but there's a bunch of em and we were tired. also; technically the FFA is still up for grabs. cleanest ascent we got was on the follow (ie; TR). in any case; this is an excellent chimney!!!


easy to find. raptor is the very obvious large tower on the left side, about 20 minutes up the canyon. Boognish is located at the left toe. climb the big obvious chimney on the right side of the tower. one rap with a single 70m from bolt anchors gets you down.


15 quickdraws and one #3 1/2 friend

Photos of Boognish Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: drake, up in it
drake, up in it
Rock Climbing Photo: Following Boognish Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Following Boognish Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: John leading Boognish Tower.
BETA PHOTO: John leading Boognish Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from inside the chimney.
View from inside the chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: taylor, about 1/2 way down
taylor, about 1/2 way down
Rock Climbing Photo: thats a rap
thats a rap
Rock Climbing Photo: taylor, firen up
taylor, firen up
Rock Climbing Photo: lookin up route
lookin up route
Rock Climbing Photo: from left to right; Boognish, Raptor, bootleg
from left to right; Boognish, Raptor, bootleg
Rock Climbing Photo: drake, about 1/2 way
drake, about 1/2 way

Comments on Boognish Tower Add Comment
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By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Jun 29, 2013

UPDATE: looks like karl kelly's boy and his girlfriend got the FFA. he said not 5.9. karl and his wife went and got on it. he agreed with his boy. he felt it is more like 10 b/c but also added that it was hot (108*), he was tired and this is not his main style of climbing. we have yet to get back there but i trust karl's experience and judgement on the matter. EXPECT MID 5.10 CLIMBING. our mantra remains; rather not sandbag people.
By Peter Blank
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Oct 16, 2013

Thank you Paul! Very excellent. Your effort much appreciated!
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2013

Cool! I've thought about doing this thing for years - glad someone got it done. It is an amazing feature.
By Rylan Hess
Mar 14, 2017

70m rap from anchors but listed at 120'? Will one 70m rope also work for the belay?
By Evan Wisheropp
Apr 10, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

What a cool route. The undulations in the last 25 feet were really beautiful. This is well protected and would be a great lead for someone looking to break into wide chimney as it hits all the sizes from back-knees and stemming.
By slim
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

superb route, well done! your comment about spicy but well protected seemed pretty accurate. i haven't really climbed anything like that, and the super wide chimney/stemming was really cool. thanks for putting it up.
By Brady Chiongbian
From: Providence, RI
Jun 1, 2017

Anchors are set up to rap off the front side... not really suitable for TR. Rope kept getting jammed even with multiple slings to extend the anchor over toward the chimney

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