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Devil's Kitchen
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Boogie Down 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A0 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,269
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Oct 4, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Rapping off of the summit.

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb sandy fingers and face for 15' and then tight hands in a left facing corner. Pass the offwidth to a couple of drilled angles and loose I-bolt.

Pitch 2: Move right off the belay and make 5.7 moves on soft rock to the top of the formation and clip a bolt. Walk right to the edge of the formation and either lower or down climb 6' of exposed class 4 to a small ledge. Reach across the chasm to the detached tower (great exposure) and clip the first pin of a six bolt ladder. Aid up the bolt ladder to a horizontal #1 Camalot placement above the last pin and grovel to two drilled angles. This is a very nice summit with great views and definitely worth the first 10' of mank on pitch 1.

Location 

This is opposite from Future Reference inside Devil's Kitchen landform.

Protection 

Pitch 1: Stoppers, (BD) (2)#0.75, #2, #4. QD if you want to clip the sketchy 1/4 inch bolt.
Pitch 2: 1 bolt, 6 fixed pitons and a #1 BD. 60 meter rope for rap.


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By Alex Garhart
Jun 24, 2009

If anyone knows the FA info or the name of the tower, please post.
By Marc Breen
May 7, 2011

Route climbed 5/4/11; used orange TCU, #0.75 x 2, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots. 1/4" bolt at top of first pitch is now hangerless but not needed. The second pitch I used 7 draws, #1 Camalot. The old manky ring pitons on the second pitch are a trip! One of them (4th one I think) was flexing and moving. But they are close enough that you could French free...I just used a double length sling attached to a daisy. For the second, we just climbed to the edge of the first tower and took the short swing to the plumb line. Nice! I would love to hear how the first ascent placed the initial ring piton on the reach over...that is a wide step!
By George Zack
From: Orting, WA
Apr 23, 2016

Has the taller tower moved since the FA? Looking at that step-across from below, holy crap that's gotta be at least 5 feet!
By Nathan Ross
May 28, 2017

@above.... that's because it is at least 5'. I'm 5'8"... it was a stretch. Awesome ride! Both anchors replaced 5/28/17. Blue cord top of 1 is new. Green means go at top of 2. Faded red is only there to cushion green on the old pins.

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