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Boogaloo Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: Boogaloo Direct follows the dark water streak in t...

Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.



This face route is left of Wedunett, and starts up a bulge using an incipient vertical seam. Moving through this is the crux. One bolt protects this section with two other bolts leading through some easier terrain. May be a bit runout for Big Rock. Belay/rap on one of a couple of bolted belays. From there one can continue up one of four second pitches.


3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

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By Jordan K
From: Ohio
Oct 8, 2006

this is a bolted sport climb, not trad
By Phil
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 16, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agreed. This is a sport route.
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Mar 10, 2007

Three bolts. Somewhat runout, but on easy climbing sections. Can cheat over and clip bolts on whodunnit or the climb left of it.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007

The original line climbs through the dish to the right and goes at 5.8, moving back to the left above the dish to rejoin the bolt line. Direct is a more aesthetic line with a very nice crux to the left of the dish. If you use the anchor up to the left (the start of Let it Bleed) a 60m will not reach the "ground" for rappel. But with rope stretch, makes it to the lower part of the 3rd/4th class slab.
By Matt Marino
From: Georgetown, MA
May 10, 2010

As you approach the anchor you'll be run out about 30ft from you're last bolt. The second bolt is about 50 feet up so you shouldn't deck but it could be a nasty fall/slide (hence the R rating). If you want to manage the risk you can traverse over and borrow a both from Wedunett about halfway between the anchor and the second bolt or if you brought some pro you can slot a nut in the crack that's down and left of the anchor.
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Looks like Phil and Jordan K don't know the definition of trad and sport. This is a trad route even though it is bolted.
By gordon broomhall
From: oceanside
Jul 28, 2011

I agree with kennoyce, boogaloo direct was put up before the term 'sport climbing' was invented . if you can get a no-hands rest and drill a bolt on lead, like the first ascensionist did , it aint sport . IMHO in Phil and jordans defense, Nowadays, everything that is bolted is referred to as sport . I have this argument with youngsters all the time. trad refers to the ethics in which the protection was placed, not the choice of gear . Trad=ground up . Sport=top down . I believe an example could be found where are a nut or fixed piece was placed on rapel to protect a severely overhanging 5.13 climb. we would call that a sport climb. english hanging gardens is the only sport climb I know of at big rock.
By jfults Fults
May 30, 2014

recommend for a confident leader. the route has large runouts. the climbing is simple, but there is a lot of smearing as it is a typical slab climb. thus, be careful with your foot placements. also, a 60m rope will reach the ground using either anchors

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