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Boodalicious Baby 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Robert Rowsam and Randall Chapman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,352
Submitted By: Rschap on Mar 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Mickey in the P3 chimney.


Pitch 1: Climb up the crack in a right-facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. The crux is low, but this stays pretty consistent 5.10 for most of the pitch. The dihedral leans right, so your feet are rarely in the crack if ever. One bolt down low but protects with gear the rest of the way.

Pitch 2: Continue up the dihedral on the left to a ledge then traverse the ledge left to the corner and head up to another ledge and a two bolt anchor. The rock quality in the corner was pretty bad so I place a few bolts for pro.

Pitch 3: Head up the chimney to the right with thin pro, mostly .4 and smaller cams. Fun .10+ move through the overhanging blocks then it eases up again. The top of the pitch turns into a squeeze that Robert fit through but I didn’t, for those of us that are a little bigger you can continue up and over but it’s a bit more airy.

Pitch 4: Climb up the crack in the left facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. This is the crux pitch and probably the best pitch of the climb.

Pitch 5: This pitch has two options, on the right is a crack that is a little harder (5.10ish) but has better pro and on the left is a 5.8ish corner with some pro. Either way you go you want to head up the small chimney on the left to top out and don’t follow the crack on the right to a large and loose block. Anchor on the big tree at the top.

Descent: Hike west (left) to a big drainage that takes you back down then follow the cliff back to the base of the climb.


Follow the cliff 20 yards left of the Eclipse Route. The route starts in a flared-ish crack to a smallish ledge that leads up to a corner with a crack in it, 15 feet left of a big, downed tree you have to climb over.


Standard trad rack plus some small cams (0.4 and smaller) for the 3rd pitch, a couple of tricams would be useful down low. A couple of Big bros would make the top of the third pitch more comfortable.

Photos of Boodalicious Baby Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on P5 -- great jams and stemming.
Topping out on P5 -- great jams and stemming.
Rock Climbing Photo: Red - pitch 1. Yellow - pitch 2. Green - pitch 3. ...
BETA PHOTO: Red - pitch 1. Yellow - pitch 2. Green - pitch 3. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The third pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The third pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The descent route.
BETA PHOTO: The descent route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The fourth pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The fourth pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Robert making the squeeze at the top of the third ...
Robert making the squeeze at the top of the third ...

Comments on Boodalicious Baby Add Comment
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By Fritz N.
From: Durango, CO
May 24, 2014

Enjoyable route with fun movement and good gear. Plenty of great moments throughout, but the fourth pitch especially is sustained and beautiful.
By Ryan Martinek
From: Grand Junction, CO
Nov 2, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Finding the climb was a bit of a challenge. Definitely bring a full resolution picture of the whole route, the one with the colored lines that follow the climbs, and keep your eye out for that downed tree next to the wall. It had a stone on it when we were therem but that could potentially change.

The whole climb was great, but the fourth pitch was just awesome!
By Nick Scott
From: Vancouver, British Columbia
Nov 2, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route, fun moves, and the 4th pitch is sustained and stellar! The bolts on the 2nd pitch are a bit of an eyesore though. The rock is not as solid as on the other 4 pitches, but there are still plenty of options for good gear. In my opinion, the bolts are unnecessary.
By Cairn Kiler
Sep 10, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very good route, great rock and some that you wish was better. Pitches 1, 4, and the straight up version of pitch 5 were all good, with pitch 4 being the most fun. Pitch three looks like it was cleaned a ton, but the rock quality still is not stellar.

Overall, great climb, props for the FA.

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