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Boob Job 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 92
Submitted By: SethG on Apr 24, 2017

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Description 

This is a good 5.10 roof problem pitch just twenty feet left of the final pitch of Elder Cleavage.

Look up from the big ledge and spot the obvious "V" of rock in the underside of the big ceiling. This is your target.

Start pretty much directly underneath the V and a little to the right. Climb moderate rock up over a little bulge and past a left facing corner until you are underneath the V.

Make a committing move to get up into the V. There is good gear here but it is strenuous to place. I got pro right at the beginning, and then I reached out as far as I could and placed a small Alien before I committed to the traverse.

And then it is on! Traverse out the right side of the V. There are good holds and there is probably more gear but I didn't take the time to place it. When you can, reach up over the roof and get over it on sandy holds. Very exciting. Scramble to the top on easy, dirty rock.

Location 

This route starts off the big ledge, twenty feet left of the third pitch of Elder Cleavage.

There is a dead/dying oak tree with a steel cable anchor around it atop the cliff. I would not use this anchor. I would do pitch three of Elder Cleavage, then put a cordalette around the big, healthy tree at the topout, rap down to the big ledge to do Boob Job, and then walk off.

Protection 

Good gear for the easy climbing and also in the roof though it is strenuous to place, see above.


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