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Addiction to Friction S 
Boo Yah S 

Boo Yah 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 326
Submitted By: Aaron Moses on Jan 26, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The iron cross

Description 

This short little route has a bit of a Napoleon complex. The bouldery moves start just off the deck and don't stop until you're at the anchor. Figure out your beta to pull through crimps, side slopers, jugs, and numerous heel-toe cams to reach the jug above the horizontal break. Now, if you have 6 ft of wingspan, you can dyno sideways into an iron cross. If you don't, things are going to get interesting. After latching the next jug, pull one more boulder problem on small crimps and crank a couple jugs to the anchor.

Location 

The face to the left of the obvious lieback crack, Addiction to Friction

Protection 

5 rusty bolts to a single bolt anchor. The anchor has a locking biner and I left a fixed draw on the last bolt to back up the anchor.


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By Taylor Roy
From: Midvale, UT
Jul 26, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I am 5'8" with a +1" reach and was able to keep my feet on the wall when I did the lateral move. It is a huge move, but you don't need to be 6' tall to do this one. Intense little route!
By Charlie Cianciolo
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 20, 2017

If you can't figure out the beta for the bottom boulder problem, keep trying! It doesn't go any harder than V4, but it sure feels hard with the wrong foot sequence. Great route!
By christopher tabeling
Aug 22, 2017

Man what a amazing climb! The climb sticks with you from the bottom to the top with perfectly sculpted holds that are just the perfect distance to make a climb!

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