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Boo Coup 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 574
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: The Martyr Closeout Closeout Direct Good Vibration...


Stand on the small pedestal of broken square blocks to start this face crack. An offset Alien, #4 BD nut, or #0 or #1 metolius tcu will stick for the first piece in what appears to be a flaring butt crack to get you off the ground. Face holds and intermittent cracks moving left and then right following the walls weakness's will gain the top ledges, traverse left 10' to the chains on the next route over.


Standard rack plus offset alien low on route.

Photos of Boo Coup Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Buried Treasure Boo Coup
BETA PHOTO: Buried Treasure Boo Coup
Rock Climbing Photo: Ass shot of Ryan Sund leading BooCoup.  JosephH (b...
Ass shot of Ryan Sund leading BooCoup. JosephH (b...

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By Billcoe
Feb 10, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I've been asked by 2 folks if they could add a bolt to the place where the offset Alien would go (lower down, it's probably the first piece and then it gets into the business). I said YES both times but was out there yesterday and still don't see where any bolt has been added yet. Feel free to put it in if you are so inclined. Make sure it's a good one.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Apr 30, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this yesterday, and there is no need for bolts. The flared slot crux at the beginning protected very well with a #4 nut, and/or a #0 or #1 metolius cam (blue or yellow). The flare above that protected fine with a orange metolius tcu.
By bryans
Apr 30, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree with Micah. We considered a bolt, but it turns out a yellow metolius back as high and deep as possible is bomber, and you can also slot a nut a few inches lower under that cam. You easily place and test both. No bolt needed.
By Topher Dabrowski
Apr 30, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route and consistent good quality gear or should I say beaucoup gear. Supporting the previous comments, a Yellow MasterCam fit exceptionally well as a first piece of gear in the flare. I'd use it over a nut as the placement was solid as a directional as well.

Definitely not "PG" as there is plenty of gear

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