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Bonzai Pipeline 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Cattabriga 1990
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: Eli on Oct 7, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Finishing up the lead after I rehearsed it on TR a...

Description 

This wild and very overhanging V groove is a rare sight at Wiamea for two reasons; one being that it is rated under 5.12, and the other being that it is a cool trad route packed into the land of bolts and prehung draws. I'll add photos and a better description when I get on it.

Location 

Just above the trail, in between Charlie Don't Surf and Sinister 6000.

Protection 

One bolt, single rack to 4"


Photos of Bonzai Pipeline Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This was the rack I used. Arranged in order the .7...
This was the rack I used. Arranged in order the .7...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bonzai Pipeline's dark wet chimney. the left has t...
Bonzai Pipeline's dark wet chimney. the left has t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The single bolt on bonzai pipeline's start. Octobe...
The single bolt on bonzai pipeline's start. Octobe...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Bonzai Pipeline
The start of Bonzai Pipeline

Comments on Bonzai Pipeline Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 8, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I spent a couple of hours in August cleaning this route. The wall on the left side was filthy. While I was there, I was able to brush most of that wall so now Charlie don't surf should dry faster because tbe moss that was stuck in most of the cracks is gone and won't retain water as much.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Oct 8, 2015

Thanks Eric, Lee told me that you did that and I am excited to get on it! Does it look like it takes decent gear?
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 8, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Trad climbing is not my forte - I only trad climb when I have to, and even then I stick to easy routes.
As far as I noticed, the bottom third is no big deal. The top third is where you will have your best pros. The middle third might be more of a problem and potentially sketchy. I would suggest you rap down and figure out your pros before giving it a go.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Oct 8, 2015

Will do!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Finally sent this one. One of the most core intensive 25 feet of climbing I've done. This is actually a very cool climb. I wish there was an anchor so more people would give it a go. Here's a video of how I did it. There must be a better way. Lee Hansche and Eli Buzzell, show me how to do it with gear. Don't hurt yourself!!!
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 19, 2016

Nice work Eric! I'll get on it someday.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 8, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

Here is a video of my lead on this thing. Wish you could see what and where I placed the gear but I'll say, it's tricky but protectable...

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