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21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Children of Light S 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Ol' 5.10 S 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Rocket In My Pocket T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Fist T 
Stone Groove T 

Bong's Away Center 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Barry Bates & Mark Klemens
Page Views: 603
Submitted By: Wylie on Apr 21, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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A nice, clean, less than vertical splitter OW that gradually goes from 3" - 6". A great intro to Valley wide climbing and knee jamming. Use long slings, back clean, or don't place anything on the traverse. Crux is pure 5" crack, by the time it opens to 6" knobs appear and the business is over. I see it listed usually as 5.10a, but compared to other OW's I'd say it's 5.9.


Move right on the big ledge at the top of pitch 2 of "Reed's Direct" to the 2 bolt anchor below "Bong's Away Left". Traverse easy terrain right and down from the anchor then up the obvious OW. 2 bolt anchor at the top. Rappel back down to the big ledge.


Single set from BD C4 #3 - #6 will get it done. Doubles of 4 and 5 if you like lots-o gear or don't want to walk your cams. I think the traverse takes between a BD .5 and #2? It's been awhile.

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