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Routes in The Sport Wall
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Bongeater T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bradley Variation S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Corazon Nuevo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ezekiel S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Genesis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jump Shot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Lamentation S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Pickled Rope Balogna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sling Shot S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Streaker S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Dave Craigmile and Tom Evans First Lead, Ken Duncan |
| Page Views: | 1,130 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Riley on Aug 15, 2013 |
| Admins: | Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Nick Richards |
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Access Issue: Respect Private Property
Details
Do not park on the River Road and do not block a farmer's field entrance. Farm equipment is large and needs a lot of room.
Description
This route is the obvious slightly overhanging chimney-crack at the far left (North) of the Sport Wall before the down ramp back to the trail.
Protection is Poor
This route was first discovered by Duncan Crosby and is named for the bongs he left in the crack on the first attempt. It is easy to identify as it is the only large, overhanging chimney-crack at the far north end of the bluff, about 250 feet left of Jamwich Sandwhich. Stem up between the two walls and move into the crack. Work up the crack to a rest on a good ledge. This is the last decent place to rest, and rest is strongly advised. Move up through the two large chockstones above and mantle into the small alcove. Turn the last overhang and work up a crack to the top.
Note: This climb overhangs from bottom to top and it is very important to use long runners at the bottom to avoid disastrous rope drag at the top. It is easily top-toped and due to the severity of this rote has only been led two or three times since the fall of 1978.
Protection is Poor
This route was first discovered by Duncan Crosby and is named for the bongs he left in the crack on the first attempt. It is easy to identify as it is the only large, overhanging chimney-crack at the far north end of the bluff, about 250 feet left of Jamwich Sandwhich. Stem up between the two walls and move into the crack. Work up the crack to a rest on a good ledge. This is the last decent place to rest, and rest is strongly advised. Move up through the two large chockstones above and mantle into the small alcove. Turn the last overhang and work up a crack to the top.
Note: This climb overhangs from bottom to top and it is very important to use long runners at the bottom to avoid disastrous rope drag at the top. It is easily top-toped and due to the severity of this rote has only been led two or three times since the fall of 1978.
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