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Bongeater Buttress

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L to R R to L Alpha
Bongeater T 
Desperado T 
Handeater T 
Life by the Throat S 
Life on your feet T,S 
Prowser T 

Bongeater Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.5747, -111.7734 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,418
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe A on Sep 1, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Bongeater Buttress seen from the Little Cottonwood...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the buttress above the parking lot with the obvious dihedral. The dihedral is the infamous Bongeater and is an easy toprope to set up by scrambling up and right of the buttress. You might find a mountain goat guarding the chains.

Getting There 

The trail begins at the northeast corner of the parking lot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bongeater Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bongeater Buttress:
Desperado   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   
Handeater   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Bongeater   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Prowser   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bongeater Buttress

Featured Route For Bongeater Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Prowser taken by iPhone - will submit better pic s...

Prowser 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Bongeater Buttress
This is the thin crack right up the prow of bongeater buttress with the bolt near the top. The route officially starts on the sloping ledge at the bottom of bongeater and goes around the corner and up the overhanging crack. The crack is expanding at the bottom and TCUs, nuts and aliens work well. The middle part eats nuts. The top part, past an old knifeblade driven up and in the crack takes a bit more creativity and is A2. A stretch from the last pin placement (short people may have to topstep)...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on Bongeater Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Price
From: SLC, UT
Feb 20, 2010
I like this place. I got engaged here.
By Ben Folsom
Jan 15, 2012
This is a message to the group students at the Bongeater Buttress yesterday Jan 14 2012. (You borrowed my cam for the top of the route). When we were leaving I left my hiking poles under your stuff. Came back by there later in the day and they were gone. Would love to get them back if you see this post. My knees will thank you!
By Sean A Smith
From: South Salt Lake, UT
Oct 25, 2015
The approach is really straight forward, but there have been some trail changes so I thought an update would be appropriate.
-Take the trail at the northeast side of the parking lot.
-When you come to a "T" go left.
-Walk about 50 feet till you come to the first trail on the right. Follow this up to Bongeater.
By notmyname
From: Sandy, UT
Apr 17, 2017
the trail up to the climb is now "closed" and in its place, an absurdly long loop around which goes down canyon before switch-backing up that IMO did way more damage to the environment than the old trail ever would have. You can ride your bike there now at least.
By kalockwood
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2017
New trail is great. If you don't like the new way, it's faster to walk past Crescent Crack and use the new trail to traverse over to the Bong Eater. Thanks SLCA!

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