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YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Ken Trout, April 1991.
Page Views: 3,063
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 9, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (122)
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The is the last bolted route to the east before the cave with the overhanging faces. The cave has a fixed sling/rap ring anchor above a thin crack. To the right, a few feet right of the arete marks the start of this route.

There are a few delicate moves that will test your footwork and balance. Figure out the crux before the last bolt to get the onsight before the pump sets in. The bolt that protects the crux is below your feet by the time you can get to a stance to clip the next one at the lip. A second mini-crux comes in manteling the lip.


5 draws (maybe more now) to a 2 bolt anchor with funky tow-truck-like snaps (formerly a double hook anchor).

Photos of Bonehead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "...
BETA PHOTO: Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon pulling onto the arete near the start...
Peter Dillon pulling onto the arete near the start...

Comments on Bonehead Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 24, 2012
By Walt Wehner
Sep 10, 2001

One star?!? One star?!?! This is a travesty of a miscarriage of justice! Mottinger and Komarnitsky will pay for this grievous transgression!

Anyway, uh, I think it should get 2 stars. Yeah, I really like this route. Big jugs and positive edges everywhere. Superbueno.
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2001

Bring it on Wehner!!!

IMHO, I didn't consider this a very juggy climb at all. Moving up on the sidepulls while getting your body position correct was the theme of the climb.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Oct 2, 2001

Definitely not a straightforward, jug haul. Your body will indeed be in many different positions, making clipping sometimes a little tricky. I don't give this route any more than 1 star, didn't enjoy it as much as many, if not all of the other routes on this wall (except the routes around the corner to the left of this route, desperate!).
By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Jun 27, 2002

Juggy it is not. There is a huge flake hold before the 3rd bolt but above that there is nothing but sidepulls. No onsight here, after clipping the 4th I came off before in reach of the 5th. Nice rest before committing up towards the 4th, difficult, awkward clip and then it seems it's up or off. I couldn't see any good stances for either the 4th or 5th bolts. All semi-positive, side pulls that grease up quickly with tenuous feet! A difficult climb that requires balance and forearms! I'd probably be inclined to give it more stars if it hadn't slapped me around like it did; right now I don't even recognize the one! Eiger Sanction seemed easier at 10d. The crux on Bonehead seems to be a pretty stout 10c as Rolofson gives it.
By Patrick Higgins
May 15, 2005

I just put a comment on Conehead describing my confusion on these two routes (read it for details). Basically, I think a new route has been put between Bonehead and the arete, so it is no longer the farthest left before the cave and overhanging routes. Can anyone provide clarification?
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Jun 25, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

See the discussion and topo under Headline to understand this part of the cliff.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 17, 2006

Did Bonehead on Junes 17, 2006 and counted 8 bolts. I would say it's only slightly easier than Conehead.
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
Nov 17, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This felt like a legit 11a to me (I've been on it 2 or 3 times the last few weeks). I would, however, only give it one star as well. Maybe one and a half.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Who was the "bonehead" who thought this contrivance up? (Muahahahaha...)

I ventured two stars for this oddity. It's not GOOD good climbing. But it's sure a quality good test piece for any climber who didn't remember to pack their rubber spine.

And yes, it actually IS super-juggy...or rather it WOULD be were gravity to pull 40 degrees off of vertical. Has legions of weird, super great ladder rungs that the universe thought would be funny were they strung together in a running slash, all well off the horizontal plane.

And they still might have been good side-pull jugs, except that the perfect stance for hands becomes a nightmare for feet (OR, great feet climbing insures that your hands will be groping at anti-gravity slopers).

Anyways, I project at 11C and STILL can't get this nasty one clean....

Jump on, have some fun, and invent rock'll need it.
By pat thompson
From: superior
Jun 21, 2011

Hard for 10c. I thought the climbing was very technical and not at all straight forward. Still good technical climbing, though.
By mrbiscoop
Sep 17, 2011

Not too hard until you get to the 2nd to last bolt. Took 3-4 lead falls at crux and still couldn't do the move, had to step in a sling to clip last bolt. Felt at least 11a to me. Even on TR I couldn't do the move without a hang.
By robbie s
From: littleton
Sep 24, 2012

I loved this route, it felt cruxy till the top. It was very hard to onsight, but I just barely got it... for sure felt hard for 10c... but that's just how it goes with onsights.... Solid for the grade, and deserving of 2 stars....

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