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Bonehead Roof 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg in 1989.
Page Views: 3,447
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Start up the steep, sharp face to the right of the Bolt Line slab. Expect generic moves up to a rest before the roof. Pull the roof, keeping mindful of the menacing ledge below it. Clip the anchors and clean your draws. Who's the Bonehead now?



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2017
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 28, 2008

The first ascent of this is Jim Shimberg in 1989.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 22, 2010

People give this the bomb because of the generic first half? or the fact that the not-so-great finish could deck you if blown?
By Hannah W
May 23, 2010

I really don't think if you have an attentive belayer you would hit the ledge, even pulling up and over the roof - the clip in the roof is so high. But don't take my word for it, check it out! I actually thought the route was fun.
By S. Neoh
May 23, 2010

This route and Med Dose Madness are in close proximity to each other and there may be confusion. I do not think the finish of this route is sketchy. The one on Med Dose is somewhat so, definitely kept my attention until I dropped the rope into the anchors. It (Med Dose) could use one more bolt before the anchor.
By S. Neoh
Aug 8, 2010

Did this route today. The fixed pro are some of the biggest (grey) eye bolts I have ever seen! But most of them are not recessed into the rock with their stems clearly visible. If you do not have trad gear or any that fit (like me the bonehead), expect to do about 30 feet of 5.4 or so solo to the 1st eye-bolt.
By Hannah W
Sep 14, 2010

soon, you can avoid the boondogle by just clipping the first bolt of med dose madness, then going to first bolt of bonehead, then back cleaning med dose's clip

no trad gear or free soloing necessary
By S. Neoh
Sep 14, 2010

Hannah, I believe you are correct. I still need to be reminded of this back clean business, still mostly a foreign concept to me (even after 20 years of climbing).
By the way, nice photo of you climbing in Yunnan. :)
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2013

Accident on this route today. Thanks to everyone who helped the injured climber evacuate.

The climber fell from the mantel move just below the chains. His top quickdraw came unclipped from the rock (not backclipped, when he came to rest it was on his rope, undamaged. The bolt did not break or pull out).

He had backcleaned the draw below it, the only one on the slabby ramp leading up to the final overhang. This meant that when the top draw unclipped he took a 50-60 ft fall ending up below the first bolt of the climb.

He sustained a serious injury to his hand and arm during the fall.

This may have occurred due to the gate being faced the wrong direction on the bolt-side biner? I placed the draw when leading the route before he did, and took a couple of falls in the same spot (he had previously fallen there as well) and the draw didn't unclip. I think I faced the gate to the left, planning to mantel pretty much directly above or a little to the right of the top bolt (route doesn't traverse at all here).

As has been noted above in these comments, the glue-in bolts do stick out pretty far on this route and that may have been a contributing factor to the draw twisting/unclipping from the bolt.
By S. Neoh
Oct 5, 2013

Wow! I hope the injured has a complete recovery.

I would have liked to have a photo of the draw that unclipped itself from the eyebolt. Lately, I have noticed leaders putting the biner constrained by the little black rubber piece (or tape) on the bolt hanger. This is wrong. Always make sure the top/bolt biner is free to rotate relative to the draw below it.

I can understand why the leader backcleaned the second to last draw. If it is short, it creates one heck of a drag at the top of the climb. What I usually do is to put both a draw and a two-foot sling on the second to last bolt. On the way up, I clip both the draw and the sling. Once I am comfortably above the roof but below the finishing slab, I reach down and unclip the rope from the draw but leaving it clipped thru the 2-foot sling. This is to prevent me from falling a long ways down the slab if the last draw were to break or become unclipped.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Oct 6, 2013

Soon from your earlier comment, i find the finish to Med dose way easier and less sketch than Bonehead. I clip the anchor before I make the last move.

re: the recent fall... no matter what you do... have SOMETHING clipped so if something does go wrong with one bolt you have something below it. a few long slings should be part of any sport climbers rack and know when to use them.
By S. Neoh
Oct 6, 2013

... a few long slings should be part of any sport climbers rack and know when to use them.
Amen to that. Thanks, Jake, for reminding everyone.
2 two-footers and 4 lightweight biners come in so handy, even on sport routes.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 5, 2015

In regard to what Jeff and Hannah were talking about on this thread five years ago (I guess I'm just a wee bit out of date), it is VERY possible to hit the ledge if you whip off the overhang just as you are pulling over the thing. How do I know this? Because I did it today (and I have the sore heels and bruised elbow to prove it.)
By caesar.salad
From: earth
Jul 7, 2017

That accident ended up being in the 2014 edition of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Don't back clean or skip bolts at Rumney!

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