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This is an excellent route as far as the climbing goes, and the gear is relatively good, but it is hard to place well in the beginning and if you fall in the crux you will most likely hit the ledge you start off of.
This route starts just south of the Dick's Prick Pinnacle at an obvious thin, discontinuous crack. There are two pins you can see form the ground, and if you step back from the wall enough you can see the rap anchor.
The protection in the beginning won't keep you from hitting the ledge just off the ground. and higher up before the anchor you have to run it out a bit, but this second runout is relatively safe because you are so high up. small wires, a couple pins, and a couple cams will be fine.
Dec 30, 2015
move by move beta movie for people who want it here: