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Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jimmy Menendez
Season: Winter
Page Views: 10,907
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Brett Merlin on Bone Crusher, 5.12+.

Description 

Bone Crusher (sometimes referred to as Bone Collector) is the line to do on the wall. It is the rightmost of the three climbs at the main wall (the one visible from the road) and offers continuously high quality, difficult climbing.

Begin in a slightly loose, difficult to protect slot and work up to good gear and a rest on a ledge out right. From here some interesting moves lead up to another rest at a jug, and then the business begins: Climb up to a small wedged flake below the steep, bulging wall above, and then jam and/or layback your way up the powerful splitter fingercrack to a stance in a slot. A few more strenuous moves lead to a bolted anchor.

Good training for your free solo of Moonlight Buttress.

Protection 

It is possible to place a #1 Camalot at the very beginning and very end of the route, but both placements are optional. All the rest of the gear is smaller -- a triple set is nice. No stoppers or draws needed.


Photos of Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Air time. It's rare to see Kevin fall.
Air time. It's rare to see Kevin fall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bone Crusher up the center.
Bone Crusher up the center.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett Merlin on Bone Crusher, 5.12+.
Brett Merlin on Bone Crusher, 5.12+.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base before the send of the Birthday Variat...
At the base before the send of the Birthday Variat...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun Reed on his Birthday Variation.
BETA PHOTO: Shaun Reed on his Birthday Variation.
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower cruxy moves on Bone Collector.
The lower cruxy moves on Bone Collector.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel on Bone Crusher, 5.12+.
Joel on Bone Crusher, 5.12+.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Stricker spring 2009 going for it.
Kevin Stricker spring 2009 going for it.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Stricker.
Kevin Stricker.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett at one of the earlier, easier cruxes.
Brett at one of the earlier, easier cruxes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott starting out the lead on Bone Crusher and tr...
Scott starting out the lead on Bone Crusher and tr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam on the Bone Collector.
Adam on the Bone Collector.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sort of a side view of the top of Bone Crusher.
Sort of a side view of the top of Bone Crusher.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking straight up Bone Crusher.
Looking straight up Bone Crusher.

Comments on Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 28, 2017
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Also heard it as being called the "Bone Collector" due to bones collected at the base from birds of prey!?
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Regardless of what it is being called the correct name of this route, as given by JM is Bone Crusher.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Sounds good to me, Wayne.
Good route nonetheless. Plenty of rests. Finger stack through the crux bulge. Trick beta to get a piece at the end of the crux. Good gear. Good fun. Jimmy once told me he thought it was 5.12a.
By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 15, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I thought there was one good rest on this thing, and the rest was super sustained. Even the last moves to the anchor were tough!
Sick!
By Josh Gross
Nov 24, 2008

Great route, not your normal Front Range crack! Wish we had more routes like this one!
By Dave Russell
Dec 19, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Super high quality movement. One of the best on the Front Range, nice change of pace from the granite splitters that are ever so prevelant in the platte.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The name of the route really is Bone Collector! The FA found lots of bird bones in the crack while cleaning the yuck out. I could be misremembering, but it was just a little while ago that I asked.

It sure does put the crush on fingers!
By Scott Bennett
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Finally made it out to this wall today, Wow! Huge thanks to everyone that's been involved in developing, cleaning, trail buiding, etc at this wall, it's so cool to find some great splitter action so close to home.
Like any pure crack climb, size matters! My partner had to do at least 2 finger stacks to make it through the crux, but I was able to get one finger lock where he couldn't. So I guess with bigger fingers, it felt like an Indian Creek 12-.
My advice for those looking to send: smash your fingers repeatedly in doors until they swell up like sausages and you'll cruise this rig.
-Scott
By eric whewell
From: Longmont, CO
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I brought 2 (0.3), 1 yellow c3, 3 (0.4), 3 (0.5), 3 (0.75) Camalots. This seemed to be adequate, at least on the redpoint. I didn't feel it was quite as sustained as many Indian Creek .12s, but there are actually 5.12 moves on this route.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Aug 16, 2012

I fondly remember working this crack back in the mid '90s - it was then (and still is) one of the hardest cracks I've ever managed to do. Steep, sustained, and hard! It was a little dirty and had a few loose holds on it back then, but I'm sure it's cleaned up now. Funny, I lived in Golden for five years and never heard of anyone else going out to that crag. Things sure have changed.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Did you ever go up there with Cameron Tague? I think I remember him talking about a crack that fits the description/location at lunch one day.
By butlerbt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 25, 2013

This crack is definitely one of the best of the Front Range. Right up there with CCC, Arms Bazaar, Wunsch's, etc. It is REALLY good.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Feels 5.12- if you have smaller hands and are a crack aficionado. Ladies - if you like green Camalot size crack and can manage a bit of purple Camalot size crack, get on this beautiful line! Funky start but great pro available after that.
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Nov 30, 2013

Kat, did you redpoint?
By Shaun Reed
From: Boulder, CO
May 13, 2016

I have been eyeing a variation to the start (to the right) for years and finally got around to cleaning it. What better time to go for the send than on my birthday! It cleaned up well and turned out to be nice fingers and some hands. It's not as hard as the original start, but it adds something new to this incredible route. It's definitely easier than the original start, but I doubt it changes the grade since the true crux (at least for me) is at the off-fingers bulge after a really good rest. Enjoy!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 6, 2017
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I'd call it a classic. The fatter your fingers, the better. I have pretty slender digits and found the crux to be bomber fingers to a desperate ring lock to some burl doggin' to a good rest. Gear is abundant and good bottom to top. Here's what I placed on the redpoint for those looking to dial it in: orange Metolius Mastercam, 0.3 Camalot, green C3, 0.4 Camalot, 0.4 Camalot, 0.5 Camalot, 0.75 Camalot, 0.5 Camalot, 0.75 Camalot. Tickle the chains.
By michalm
Jan 9, 2017
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I have given this route two burns now and managed to climb from beneath the steep bulge to the chains without falls. I am generally so pumped by the time I get to the fat fingers bulge that the moves feel nearly impossible. Having 0.4-sized fingers, it doesn't feel likely for me to place anything higher than a 0.4 at the start of the bulge before blasting through the crux. How do the rest of you without sausage fingers do it?
It feels safe if a bit airy to run out the entire crux before getting a hand jam at the top of the bulge, so I guess this will be the strategy. I do have concerns about the rock on the right side of the crack looking a little fractured. I place a purple Mastercam from just above the crux and then a 0.75 pulling through the thin hands bulge and gun for the anchors.
This route is really good, especially for the Front Range. The crux feels harder than just about any splitter .12 I can think of for my hand (#2) and finger (0.4) size.
By michalm
Jan 28, 2017
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I guess the key was not to place gear through the bulge. Seemed to work today.

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